I had acouple of thoughts on the horn improvement thread. Some have been
voiced before, others need clarification.
1. If an instrument plays sharp or flat it's easy to correct the tubing
lengths. This should always be done by cutting or extending cylindrical
sections of the horn. These can alway
On Feb 28, 2007, at 10:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
message: 1
date: Tue, 27 Feb 2007 13:26:32 -0500
from: "Jeremy Cucco" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
subject: [Hornlist] Re: Holton Improvements
Anna said...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't many
Anna said...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't many horns built at A=442, with the
idea that the insertion of the hand in the bell brings the pitch down?
I think that for the most part, it's not the horn that plays sharp, it's
the player that plays sharp, mostly caused by end
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't many horns built at A=442, with the idea
that the insertion of the hand in the bell brings the pitch down? I think that
for the most part, it's not the horn that plays sharp, it's the player that
plays sharp, mostly caused by endurance and strength issues (or
I'm pretty sure Holton tuned them to A=442 with the slides all the way in, a
reasonable amount of pull should give A=440. You could get the tuning slide
lengthened if it doesn't get there. I'd think about lengthening that little Bb
slide first. Those were sometimes kinda short in the 70s. Wi
5 matches
Mail list logo
