From: BadBob
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2011 10:10 PM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Epoxy canopy.
This is the forth attempt to send this through..:
After receiving an email from an overseas KR driver advising of a different
approach to gluing canopies
I tried a little test.
One
Mark L. wrote ?Another key is HOW you do it...you need to sandwich the acrylic
on both sides with
glass to put it in a sort of "double shear" rather than glass on only one
side" ?snip-
Since I will be attaching my canopy soon I thought a test was in order.
I gouged (very rough) an area
OOPS.sorry
http://www.firgelli.com/products.php
Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
971-645-9491
http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#
I found this tonight and thought I would share. It is a miniature linear
actuator
1.67 in long with an arm that has a little over 3/4 inch travel (20mm). The one
with
the 100/1 gear has about 7 pounds of force. You can get it with end travel
limit
switches built in and they all have internal
Joe stated;
"Any holes drilled around the edges make for a potential stress riser. Drill
no holes."
I would have to respectfully disagree, to a point, with Joe on this one. (I
don't find myself in that position often as he is a wealth of good
information!).
The canopy on my Thorp T-18 was
"I've been reading articles about selecting and testing wood. Lots of good
info.
Besides Sitka Spruce, Port Orford Cedar, Alaskan Yellow Cedar and Hemlock are
rated as good choices for airplanes."
I am using Douglas Fir for the longerons and spars on my KR2SS, with one piece
wing. The Fir is
I still have the type 4, 2400cc converted engine for sale. most of the mods
have been done. One more process need to be done according to Steve Bennett.
The last process was added after Steve did this crank.
$1200.00
No ignition, intake, exhaust or carb.
Man, how the time flies!!! I did what I thought be a reasonable build in
sixty days only to run out of money.
Some time passed and the money flowed again. J So I ordered enough "stuff"
to pretty much complete
my airframe (KR2SS). Then a lot of time transpired .without any building
taking
"Sure don't mean to scare anyone and you bring up some good points. I will
revise my gross down to 1200# and find a way to meet that."
Build your spars out of aircraft grade Douglas Fir. The wood is more than
15% stronger in tension and compression than spruce.
Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
Hi Bob.
What's the full story with the Type 4 motor?
I have been considering going VW instead of Corvair due to price and
availability of parts here in Australia.
Cheers
Darren Crompton
AUSTRALIA
Hi Darren.
I got the engine with a partially built KR2S. I bought the plane (built stock
and to
A 2400cc type 4 engine for sale with engine mount. Modified crank (Steve
Bennett says it nee one more process) force one prop hub and bearing. No
intake, exhaust or ignition. No oil pump.
$1200 OBO. I will crate for free and shipping is at actual cost. Free delivery
within 200 miles. (My zip
Well, after building for two months I thought I should post some pictures.
http://picasaweb.google.com/103552664644911775549/KR2SS#
The idea for the laminations came from Mark L's website and Darren Crompton.
The longerons are 5/8 X 3/4 inches. The extra strength is to raise the gross
weight
My Cassutt is probably close to a KR. I have a friend with a Lancair 235
sporting an 0-290. He and I are both over 200lbs resulting in a rearward cg..
When I first flew the aircraft it took a concerted effort to to not cause pilot
induced oscillations.
To fly it required "caging" the stick
http://www.mattituck.com/TMX20-24.htm
Interesting options based on Marks 3100 "big boy" weight!!!
Bob Johnson
Willamina, OR
badbob0...@embarqmail.com
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