>For whats its worth the only other time I have seen a repeated oil leak that stumped me and other techs prior to a total teardown was when a crank was broken, but not broken into two pieces.
Hello Netter's. Here's the final analysis and diagnosis. I tore down the engine and then took kit over to Richard Shirley's for carefull inspection of the flywheel nd crank assembly. Everything looked fine...no unusual wear noted. Today I took the crank, flywheel, magnet ring and mag drive to a local speed shop. The crank was magnafluxed with no defects found. The journals were all mic'd and were good. AAAGGHHHH!!!!!! Then the Owner of the shop walked out, took a quick look at all the parts. After studying the gland nut he announced the gland nut was cracked and no matter what the initial torque was or how we locked it from turning, it would break completely sooner or later. After the last leak problem, the flywheel and gland nut was replaced so we didn't think to check it. The crack had to be seen with a magnifying glass. The permatex on the nut didn't help any either. I wish I still had the old nut to see if it broken also. So, now I get to rebuild my engine which really didn't to be torn down in the first place. Since we are there, I am having the flywheel and crank wedge fit to ensure I have no more problems. Scat produces a chromolly gland nut that the racers are using and that will also be installed. The guy at the speed shop assured me this nut will not break under the loads we use them at. He said has seen only one sheared, and that was after applying over 600 ft lbs of torque. All crank components, to include the prop hub and magnet ring/ mag drive are going to be assembled and balanced as one complete unit. I just may make the gathering after all. I just may not have all the cosmetics finished up on the airframe. Thanks for all the help and advice. This group is the best! Regards, Steve Glover kr...@cox.net KR-2 N902G AJO, Ca.
