hello, 

cool, i don't know what i'm going to do with the car (it's also kinda
rusty now and goes through oil at absurd rates) but a slave cyl is not too
expensive.. i'm sorting out what i'm going to do about a car.. since now i
don't have any running vehicles (and two 240D's off the road.. the POS
from darrell that still wants about $1000 in work to pass inspection, and 
my til-now trusty but rusty blue car), but if replacing the cylinder ain't
too bad a job i might give that a try. 
thanks for the tip aboutnot messing with the adjustment nut... :) 

gregg aka isildur

On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Gregg,
> 
> Catching up on digest - forgive if repeating info.
> 
> I recently replaced the master clutch cylinder to repair a similar casualty.  
> Remember, there is a slave cylinder at the other end of the pipe, that 
> translates the pressure from the master cylinder into motion to move the 
> through-out bearing.  A slave cylinder failure could also be the culprit.
> 
> Diagnose by visually examining both cylinders; the bad one will probably be 
> the one leaking brake fluid.
> 
> If you change out the master cylinder, I recommend you don't loosen the nut 
> on the rod at the top of the cylinder, as this changes the clutch/pedal 
> engagment point relationship.  Only loosen/remove the two nut/bolts that hold 
> the cylinder in place, and the feed line (push-in connection) and the 
> pressure pipe that goes to the slave cylinder.
> 
> HTH.
> 
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
> Digest Lurker since 2001
> '85 300TD 322k miles (Euro 5spd)
> '96 Infiniti I30 149k miles (wife's 5spd)
> '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification'
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
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