yea, I should have you come over for a week and whip thru many projects
Luther wrote:
> Lazy bum. You should just pay me to do it...
>
> Luther
>
> On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 20:09:44 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
>> Crap, which I read this earlier, Iwould have done it. Ba
On my 87 300D, the temperature sensor is a thermistor (two wires) and
the single one is a switch to turn on the cooling fan, Don't know
what part is used on the SDL, as the pushbutton unit is different.
I'll check my brother's later, but it may be an 87, and the values
changed on the W124 c
Lazy bum. You should just pay me to do it...
Luther
On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 20:09:44 -0500, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Crap, which I read this earlier, Iwould have done it. Back in for the
> evening now. And no, I didnt even mess with that engine swap like I
> told you I was p
Crap, which I read this earlier, Iwould have done it. Back in for the
evening now. And no, I didnt even mess with that engine swap like I
told you I was planning on.
Luther wrote:
> Can someone (with an OM603) pull the connectors off their green coolant
> sensor and check if they are normally
Also open --
On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 7:53 PM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> and the single-wire side is??? That is the side that helps the ACC.
>
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D (R
and the single-wire side is??? That is the side that helps the ACC.
Thanks, Luther
On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 19:50:08 -0500, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The two - wire side is normally open on the '87 300D.
>
> On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 7:41 PM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Can someone
The two - wire side is normally open on the '87 300D.
On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 7:41 PM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Can someone (with an OM603) pull the connectors off their green coolant
> sensor and check if they are normally open? This is the sensor that sits
> next to the fuel filter
Can someone (with an OM603) pull the connectors off their green coolant sensor
and check if they are normally open? This is the sensor that sits next to the
fuel filter where the coolant comes into the head from the top radiator hose.
TIA all,
Luther
On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 20:44:57 -0500, Peter
I had to swap this sensor when I did the head swap. The '91 350SDL that this
head came from had 4 cntacts, IIRC. After reading through the 1986 Supplement,
it seems to me that the green coolant sensor in question should be normally
open. The official test is:
Start engine, pull 1-pole connec
It's toast, I think. On the 300D, one wire is the fan switch, should
be open, but the other two (two wire plug, if the plug is still
intact) is a thermistor. May be a switch and a thermistor on the
W126, I'm not sure. Could be a coolant temp switch, too for that
matter, you will have to c
> I just checked the schematic. The pressure switch _is_
> in between the ACC and the Klima pin 10.
In commemoration of somebody actually using the checklist,
I added a socket picture of the Klima. (I pulled the Klima
from the car, and got out the schematic again.)
-- Jim
> With both out you can ohm out the wire between them. Klima
> pin 10 to ACC X1 pin 7. If it's not zero ohms, then the
> refrigerant sensor (which I think is in there) is at fault.
> Or disconnected. Or, doing what it's supposed to!
I just checked the schematic. The pressure switch _is_
in bet
> Pin 10 at the Klima mount read open on the Ohm meter. I pulled the ACC
With both out you can ohm out the wire between them. Klima
pin 10 to ACC X1 pin 7. If it's not zero ohms, then the
refrigerant sensor (which I think is in there) is at fault.
Or disconnected. Or, doing what it's supposed
> No, the Klima was NOT told to turn the a/c on. Pin 10 at the Klima
> mount read open on the Ohm meter. I pulled the ACC and it's WA
> different from the
I think that SDL has the refrigerant safety switch in that line.
Often it's the last thing on the way to the compressor, but I think
in
Might want to try letting the engine heat up and rechecking. Could be
normally open that closes when it comes up to temp. Or vice-versa.
-Dave Walton
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 12:09 AM, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> That sensor plug is keyed and cannot be reversed? I've applied some Deoxit
That sensor plug is keyed and cannot be reversed? I've applied some Deoxit to
all of the coolant sensor connectors. I've checked the resistances of all of
the coolant sensors, and the 3 pronged green (see the picture link) showed open
to ground, and open across all 3 combinations of prongs. S
Wilton wrote: "Donald, if I were there, I'd do it for ya free and with pleasure
- ya wouldn't be able to tell it had been "added" later. Installed several of
'em in old houses 35 to 40 years ago. 'Have also built several kitchens and
houses "from scratch." 20 years ago, 'also restored 2 large
ot;
Sent: 6/18/08 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
I have connections for reasonably priced self-employment insurance. I'm
figuring in retirement/insurance/taxes all into the picture. I'm not going to
quit the night job until I can easily make double in the home repair busine
late Dec
'72.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
> Luther wrote: "I'm working on getting my home repair business to the
self-sustaining poi
I have connections for reasonably priced self-employment insurance. I'm
figuring in retirement/insurance/taxes all into the picture. I'm not going to
quit the night job until I can easily make double in the home repair business.
Luther
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 18:06:28 -0500, Bill R <[EMAIL PROTEC
The pusbutton unit provides the ground for the signal -- it must have
12V on it with the ignition on. If not, you have a wiring problem,
usually a broken wire at the socket.
That's why I suggested testing voltage to ground at the pressure cut-
out switch.
To jump a few posts, check the wire
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 6:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
Im assuming you have health insurance etc with your real job. My
advice, dont give that up. I have been self employed for many years,
having that insurance is very
gh.
>> BillR
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> On Behalf Of Luther
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 11:24 AM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
>>
>>
I believe that the coolant sensor for the ACC is in a dual element
sensor on the engine - one set of pins for the ACC, the other for the
idle control. The AC on my SDL would turn off the compressor as soon
as the coolant hit 80C - the PO had reversed the sets of wires on that
sensor. The AC worked
Luther wrote: "I'm working on getting my home repair business to the
self-sustaining point."
If you are ever in Wichita, Kansas and want to make a little extra money, I
need somebody really good to install a dishwasher in my house. My house was
built in 1929 and never has had a dishwasher. So,
OK, test results are all normal except for the following:
Sensor Ground test, Pin 8 (coolant temp)=open
Vacuum flaps, pin 8 (short DEF Flap)=1k ohms
Maybe I have a bad (hopefully unplugged) coolant sensor.
What does the vacuum flap reading mean?
Luther
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 12:41:29 -0500, Luther
Hold that thought, I just read your section on checking if everything that
tells the ACC what to do is working ok...be back in a while after these tests
are done.
Luther,
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 12:38:39 -0500, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> No, the Klima was NOT told to turn the a/c on. Pin
No, the Klima was NOT told to turn the a/c on. Pin 10 at the Klima mount read
open on the Ohm meter. I pulled the ACC and it's WA different from the
123s that I'm familiar with. How do you get these buggers appart and what are
the normal failure modes? I can see several caps on the botto
Only way I know to tell if the pressure switch is working is to
measure its continuity while measuring the pressure. It's standard
procedure to check it after adding refrigerant. All the ones I've seen
are closed (zero ohms) with pressure in the system. If one of the
wires falls of its better to sh
] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Luther
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 12:00 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
I don't mind, I'm hoping to not be employed there within the next 6 months.
I'm working on getting my home repair business to
t the #1 consideration at the moment though.
> BillR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Luther
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 11:24 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
>
I don't mind. Guess that is not the #1 consideration at the moment though.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Luther
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 11:24 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
Hrm
Hrm, maybe if I quit my night job :D
Luther
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:04:08 -0500, Bill R <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> When you are practiced up would you be interested in doing another? Mine is
> back to working correctly after a month of problems, but if it lasts the
> summer I think I had bette
> Low pressure switch was already bypassed by the po. So I pulled the
> KLIMA relay and the instant I hit pins 5 & 7 together, I heard the
> clutch kick in. I'm going to resolder the KILMA now.
Yes, but this isn't definitive. Was Klima told to turn on the AC?
> How can I tell if the low pres
Of Luther
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '86 SDL no a/c
Low pressure switch was already bypassed by the po. So I pulled the KLIMA
relay and the instant I hit pins 5 & 7 together, I heard the clutch kick in.
I'm going to reso
Low pressure switch was already bypassed by the po. So I pulled the KLIMA
relay and the instant I hit pins 5 & 7 together, I heard the clutch kick in.
I'm going to resolder the KILMA now.
How can I tell if the low pressure switch is good? The system has full charge
from Monday morning (I ho
First, check for voltage at the low pressure switch on the reciever/
dryer. This is the one with spade lugs and push-on connectors. If
you have voltage (12V or more) to ground, the pushbutton unit is not
switching the compressor on. Jumper them together with the engine
running and the AC
They are next to each other under the hood mounted on the firewall
next to the brake master cylinder and booster - opposite side than the
fuse box. The square one is the overvoltage relay, the long
rectangular one is the Klima.
Quick checks -
Resistance on the AC Pressure switch should be zero. It
Where are the klima and overvoltage relays? I might as well just pull them and
the push button unit and resolder them all now. Thanks,
Luther
On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:03:56 -0500, dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Here is a picture of the bad solder connections on my overvoltage relay:
>
> I pulled this off the web a while back.
There is also some checklist information in my web page,
mostly about diagnosing Klima and ACC panels:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html
With these and the car's schematic you can go far!
-- Jim
___
> Here is a picture of the bad solder connections on my overvoltage
> relay:
> http://www.meternumber.com/Mercedes_OvervoltageRelay_BadSolder.JPG
Classic problem, easy to fix. (Once you get to where you can
take a picture!)
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.co
If it's made by Bosch, it's pretty typical for the vintage. This is the same
issue that plagues the ACC pushbutton unit - the solder fails over time and
cracks, making for an intermittent connection.
A good quality soldering iron, a little time, and after reflowing the joints
all should b
Here is a picture of the bad solder connections on my overvoltage relay:
http://www.meternumber.com/Mercedes_OvervoltageRelay_BadSolder.JPG
-Dave Walton
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used par
I pulled this off the web a while back. It might be for a different
model, but the pinouts for the Klima should be the same. I have not
gone through it all, but jumped around when working on my 87SDL. FYI -
step 49 gives me ~ 9K ohms on both my SDL's. If you have measurements
you want me to check o
ugh... power is off at the house so I am sending this from my phone.
The SDL now has a fresh charge of R134 and the compessor will not kick in.
What are the diagnosis steps that I need to do from here?
TIA all,
Luther, from my Blackjack II
--
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,x
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