Depends on the exact thermistor and application, but usually on the order of
hundreds to thousands of ohms. Should vary with temp, too, quite a bit.
I don't remember if they are positive or negative gradient, but either an open
or a short is bad -- either it's reading infinitely hot or infinite
Any idea what the values should be?
On 9/13/2019 5:04 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
Check the resistance of the sensor, they are all thermistors. Also check for
continuity. If you have access to a wiring diagram, you should be able to pull
a connector on the PBCU and test the appro
Check the resistance of the sensor, they are all thermistors. Also check for
continuity. If you have access to a wiring diagram, you should be able to pull
a connector on the PBCU and test the appropriate pins on the connector.
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To
Well problem not solved. It is current 74 and when driving down the highway it
after about 10 minutes the fog starts followed by snow flakes then freezing up.
It literally feels like sitting in front of a deep freeze. Compressor still
appears to not be cycling. Is there a way I can test the evap
A bad evaporator temp sensor is what I would have suggested. It's there to cut
the compressor off when the evaporator is too cold, and those are your
symptoms. Check to make sure the sensor is in the correct position, too.
Don't know where it is on the W201, but on the W124 it's above the dri
I don’t think so but it’s possible. I would think the compressor should cycle
though. Anyway I think I found the problem. I took everything apart to replace
a squeaky blower motor. I had repaired some wires back behind the battery that
were mouse damaged. I noticed the wiring to the evap temp se
Isn't that a sign of not enough gas?
On Thu, Sep 12, 2019 at 2:33 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> So I replaced the manifold hose assembly, new drier, converted to 134 and
> pulled vacuum for 1 hour before charging. AC blow great, super cold. Once
> you are drivin
So I replaced the manifold hose assembly, new drier, converted to 134 and
pulled vacuum for 1 hour before charging. AC blow great, super cold. Once you
are driving it blows ice cubes, literally. So after about 15-20 minutes the
evaporator is basically freezing up. You will start getting fog blow
Most common leaks those compressors are the manifold o-rings and the shaft
seal. Neither will improve with running.
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Yea it does. I wonder if the compressor is really leaking and if so, if it’s
from sitting and possible will stop leaking once the system starts being used
again.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 3, 2018, at 1:07 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> It won’t work in shaft seals, understandab
It won’t work in shaft seals, understandably, but it will seal up leaking O
rings and porous hoses.
Their criteria is that it has to hold 29” of Hg for a minimum of 30 minutes to
be small enough for it to seal.
Sounds like your car meets that.
-D
> On Jun 3, 2018, at 2:02 PM, Kaleb C. Stripl
Will that stuff seal up o rings? Don’t think it will do anything for a leaking
compressor will it?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 3, 2018, at 12:56 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> OK, then I would agree with your diagnosis.
>
> Throw a $30 can of ClipLight in it and see what it does.
OK, then I would agree with your diagnosis.
Throw a $30 can of ClipLight in it and see what it does.
-D
> On Jun 3, 2018, at 12:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> The valves were closed.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 3, 2018, at 11:30 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>>
The valves were closed.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 3, 2018, at 11:30 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Probably, but why didn’t you close the service valves to isolate the car from
> the loop? I always do this whenever I check for a vacuum, as that way I know
> my gauges and manif
Probably, but why didn’t you close the service valves to isolate the car from
the loop? I always do this whenever I check for a vacuum, as that way I know
my gauges and manifold aren’t the source.
?
-D
> On Jun 3, 2018, at 12:22 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> After sittin
Time for the dye check / black light routine. Fix the leaks, keep the R12
system... it will "blow cold" much better.
On Sun, Jun 3, 2018 at 9:22 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> After sitting since yesterday it has lost almost all the vacuum. Come of
> it could
After sitting since yesterday it has lost almost all the vacuum. Come of it
could be the machine hoses maybe but I would say it is safe to say the car has
leaks.
Sent from my iPhone
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er over. I had to cut a notch in it but it works fine
now... Fred gave me a replacement which I'll hold in reserve...
-Curt
Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 17:54:37 -0500
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] 190D ac, update
To: mercedes Mailing List
Message-
blower switch locked up on me so I took it apart to try and figure it
out. I see it has 3 little rocker things on a shaft that has a tab,
which prevents the rocker things from going too far. If they break,
it goes too far and the switch gets stuck. Well thats what happened.
That's what alwa
Well, 2 days later, AC is still working GREAT. Spent a little time
today cleaning the car up, and will try and get to buffing it tomorrow.
The damn blower switch locked up on me so I took it apart to try and
figure it out. I see it has 3 little rocker things on a shaft that has
a tab, which
I will have to check that out. Vacuum seems just fine to me. Probalby
a sensor. As for the 134, when I had it going before the last leak, it
cooled just fine with 134 even in a 90+ day. I did change out the
expansion valve etc also.
Tyler Backman wrote:
> Have you checked all of the pins on
Well, this thing opens all the way, and you get just about full out out
the side vents, while getting cool or somewhat cool are out the center
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> I also noticed that after a while of running, the heater valve opens
>> back up unless you have the dial all the way to min. Anybody
> instructions on http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html?
> Some of the instructions are wrong for later model 190Ds, but for
> anything pre-87 I think they should be correct.
Would love to have any corrections to add to it!
-- Jim
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http://
Have you checked all of the pins on your climate control with a
multimeter per the instructions on
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html?
Some of the instructions are wrong for later model 190Ds, but for
anything pre-87 I think they should be correct.
Since your heater val
> I also noticed that after a while of running, the heater valve opens
> back up unless you have the dial all the way to min. Anybody know
> anything about these 201 climate controls? Wonder if its a sensor
> somewhere or the control unit. I also dont seem to get much air out of
> the side vents
Well, the AC saga continues. I had to have the manifold hoses rebuilt,
installed them yesterday. Pulled a vacuum for 2 hours, then let it it
sit all night and day till this evening, still holding vacuum at same
level. Put a little 134 in it, sniffer did not see any leaks. Fully
charged and
ahhh, ok, I see what I did wrong then.
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Measure between wire and compressor case. I am not sure about the 190D
>> but
>> some compressors use case as ground and only one wire for clutch. Some
>> compressors have a pressure switch for other wire or a sensor which
>> detects
>>
> Measure between wire and compressor case. I am not sure about the 190D
> but
> some compressors use case as ground and only one wire for clutch. Some
> compressors have a pressure switch for other wire or a sensor which
> detects
> if compressor is turning.
Of the three wires on my 190D compre
PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 9:09 PM
To: mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] 190D ac
OK, screwing around with the AC a little this evening on the 190D.
Think I have some mice wiring issues still to work out on that. But
OK, screwing around with the AC a little this evening on the 190D.
Think I have some mice wiring issues still to work out on that. But,
shouldnt applying positive power to the red wire and negative to one of
the other 2 wires kick the clutch in when hooked directly to the
compressor? Tried it
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