On Apr 27, 2006, at 12:11 PM, Chuck Landenberger wrote:
Suggestions appreciated.
Best Regards
Dan
The most common failure is a dirty switch, which is easily rectified
by disassembly and cleaning. Putting 12v directly to the wires on the
door will tell you if the motor is good reversing
I have the inner panel off and electrically everything is fine to the
motor.
That's harder to determine than you might think. Hook a test light
to the two terminals and actuate the switch. It should light up both
ways. The terminals are both 'hot' normally, the switch selectively
grounds one
Dan,
I tend to agree with Chuck re the regulator versus the motor. That said,
the lube in the motor gearset does dry out over time, and bearings do go
dry. Pull the motor and see if it runs. But first, try another 12V source
to run the motor with, preferably one that doesn't get bent in a door j
Chuck is correct, but you neglected to mention whether the window was
"attempting" to rise or was totally dead. If it's bumping and then falling
back down, the regulator teeth or a toogh thereof, are/is broken. Otherwise,
it could be a bad motor or switch.
On 4/27/06, Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL P
Yesterday my wife came home in her 300CDT and the window on the driver's
side would not go up.
I have the inner panel off and electrically everything is fine to the motor.
Does anyone know if there is an internal limit switch in the motor. The coil
of the window motor reads continuity but will not
