Dave, I pass by a Harbor Freight on the way home and
will look tonight. I was also thinking about the
overlap thing.
While I don't do WVO, I do get free 3-5 gallon pails
of vegetable oil occasionally, food service business.
I add a gallon or two at each fill up to stretch the
$3.20/gal. diese
You still have to do something with the ends. You can order nylon that
will fit snugly inside the existing flexible tubing at the gas tank
and lift pump - the same way the current metal tubing does.
I use a larger size tubing and did the overlap thing with the existing
hose, rather than fit inside
I agree with the tech. Gump has rubber lines connecting to the solid
lines at the tank, and then more rubber to make the bend up to the
engine from under the car. No low tech return line rubber, but
hardier stuff like the cigar hose is made of. If it is exposed to
the elements in a harmf
I would be able to replace the complete line with
Nylon 6 tubing if I follow your logic. I'd prefer
this to patching.
--- dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the
> vacuum created by
> the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with
> Ny
like stainless
> steel Oetiker clamps.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> www.kegkits.com
> 256-656-1924
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Fred Johnson
> Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:26 AM
> To:
You need a somewhat rigid tubing to hold up to the vacuum created by
the lift pump on the engine. I've had good luck with Nylon-6 tubing
from Mcmaster.com . I use a more flexible tubing to join the nylon to
the existing metal in a butt-joint by covering both pieces and using
spring clamps. I prefer
Gentlemen, thank you as always for your sage adivice.
Tom, where would I be able to buy Oetiker clamps?
Thanks,
Fred
--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > You might also consider getting a 25' roll of
> copper tubing, it's
> > easier to
> > hand form.
>
> Diesel eats copper. Don't do
> You might also consider getting a 25' roll of copper tubing, it's
> easier to
> hand form.
Diesel eats copper. Don't do this.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAI
You might also consider getting a 25' roll of copper tubing, it's easier to
hand form.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery opti
Patch or replace are both OK, as long as the line is decent except for
the spots you are patching. If you replace it, or splice in new pipe,
get some that isn't zinc galvanized on the inside, diesel and zinc
don't mix well.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new pa
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line
> In replacing my rear breake line I also found several
> leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers are.
> The buffers are great places for dirt and water to be
> held in place to corrode these lines
EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Fred Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:26 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 300SD Fuel Line
In replacing my rear breake line I also found several
leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers are.
The buffers are great places for dirt and water to be
In replacing my rear breake line I also found several
leaks in the fuel lines where the rubber buffers are.
The buffers are great places for dirt and water to be
held in place to corrode these lines over time.
For the past month I've been seraching out fuel lines.
Mercedes no longer makes them.
13 matches
Mail list logo
