I got it working again, four (!) of the valves in the valve
block were bad. Unfortunately two of the ones in the one
I got at the U-Pull were also bad. ($3 for the part.)
Fortunately there is room for _two_ valve blocks in there,
so I just put them both in and mix-and-matched to get seven
now tell us again how you tested the valves
Jim Cathey wrote:
I got it working again, four (!) of the valves in the valve
block were bad. Unfortunately two of the ones in the one
I got at the U-Pull were also bad. ($3 for the part.)
Fortunately there is room for _two_ valve blocks in there,
now tell us again how you tested the valves
Ohmmeter. See:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html#acctest
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
Oh, and the details (along with connection chart) of the
valve body repair are at:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SELlog.html#19Jul2009
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
My wife's been complaining of wacky AC vent behavior,
often going to defrost, and/or losing center vent
output. Since I was fooling with the radio I pulled
the PB array and had a look at its solder joints.
I touched up the switches themselves but didn't see
anything there. (I didn't really
: [MBZ] 560 SEL HVAC
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Sunday, July 19, 2009, 8:54 AM
My wife's been complaining of wacky
AC vent behavior,
often going to defrost, and/or losing center vent
output. Since I was fooling with the radio I pulled
the PB array and had a look
Did you reflow the solder joints between the bottom board and the side
boards? That's the most common area for failures when it comes to
solder joints in the PB units.
No side boards in the later 126 units. (The side board problem
is a biggie for the ones with the little translucent AUTO
