Spending the time and money to do it "right" would involve honing and
using oversize rings or inserting a sleeve. With that you might get
another 150k out of the engine instead of another 80k. What are the
chances that you will still be driving the car in 8 or 10 years versus
15 or 20 years? I'd pu
Yea, this was all posted way back when I start this project. It was
decided that #1 was out of round more so than the others, but not out of
spec. All I am going to do is replace that one rod using the same
piston and rings, so I should probably just leave it alone unless I was
going to do t
The question is "how much wear". Is it out of tolerence? Didn't you measure
it for 'out of round'?
Yes - you can really see the difference in those pictures!
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:12 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> well #1 has light hatch marks except for about 1/2" or so of the bore on
> the
well #1 has light hatch marks except for about 1/2" or so of the bore on
the front side of th engine which has no hatch marks from wear.
dave walton wrote:
Light hatch marks are better than no hatch marks in my opinion. They
help lubricate the rings, right?
-Dave Walton
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at
Light hatch marks are better than no hatch marks in my opinion. They
help lubricate the rings, right?
-Dave Walton
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:52 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> Here are a couple of photos showing the difference between the old style 603
> 3.5 rods and the updated rods. I think yo
Here are a couple of photos showing the difference between the old style
603 3.5 rods and the updated rods. I think you can tell but the one on
the left is the original style. In person you can REALLY tell the
difference, makes you wonder why they ever used these lighter rods. I
would love t
