cedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Door Strike Screws
> And I do hope Scott's replacement went faster than mine!
You all inspired me to give thus another go. I found I couldn't make the
latch turn all the way using the new striker, even out of the car. With
some trepidation I took off
> And I do hope Scott's replacement went faster than mine!
You all inspired me to give thus another go. I found I couldn't make the
latch turn all the way using the new striker, even out of the car. With
some trepidation I took off the back left and... It worked! I found that
the new latch had
On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 10:07 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:
> Take a look at your door strike and compare it to one on a working door.
> There is a small piece of plastic in the bottom that sticks out just a
> little bit on a good one. This piece is what usually fails and causes the
> door not to l
Take a look at your door strike and compare it to one on a working door.
There is a small piece of plastic in the bottom that sticks out just a
little bit on a good one. This piece is what usually fails and causes the
door not to latch all of the way. Make sure that piece is there or no
amount of
Tim -
This probably isn't the problem if the latch was working before you messed
with the striker but I had a problem like that once with my 107 door latch.
Turned out that there was a sort of hairpin spring in the door latch assy.
That broke in half and didn't allow the latch to cock or reset to t
> > Scott Ritchey wrote:
> >
> > I tried to replace a door strike (aka door locking eye) on
> > 1983 300SD and was unable to loosen the top two screws. The
> > bottom two popped loose OK.
> Tim C wrote:
>
> I will assume he will get them out, but I have a question on
> the next step: how do you p
On Feb 8, 2012 5:21 PM, "Scott Ritchey" wrote:
>
> I tried to replace a door strike (aka door locking eye) on 1983 300SD and
> was unable to loosen the top two screws. The bottom two popped loose OK.
I will assume he will get them out, but I have a question on the next step:
how do you put them b
A smack with the hammer loosened the bond in the taper and puts less stress
on the tool and bolt head. Less chance of stripping the hex. They turn
out with ease after smacking them.
Mike
On Feb 8, 2012 9:12 PM, "Dan Penoff" wrote:
> And the hand impact drivers usually have very large Phillips
And the hand impact drivers usually have very large Phillips head drivers with
them, too.
I think I bough the one I have at Sears years ago, and it was like $10. I'm
sure Harbor Freight has them now for less than that.
Dan
On Feb 8, 2012, at 9:08 PM, OK Don wrote:
> What he said - always wo
What he said - always worked for me.
On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 4:35 PM, G Mann wrote:
> Hand operated impact driver attach proper hex drive / phillips drive /
> whatever fits and hold squarely in contact with screw fitting and strike
> smartly with 2 lb hand operated hammer SMAA !!!
> Scott Ritchey wrote:
> I tried to replace a door strike (aka door locking eye) on
> 1983 300SD and was unable to loosen the top two screws.
> Question: Does anyone know any tricks to loosen these screws?
The problem is probably not the threads, but the taper fit of
the head. I have used Kroi
Just smack the bolts with a brass hammer before removing them with a good
5mm on a ratchet. Has worked for me on some that would not budge with an
Allen wrench.
Mike
On Feb 8, 2012 5:35 PM, "G Mann" wrote:
> Hand operated impact driver attach proper hex drive / phillips drive /
> whatever f
He will be a looser
--R
On 2/8/12 5:35 PM, G Mann wrote:
while rotating
in direction of "lose" for the intended servant screw.
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Hand operated impact driver attach proper hex drive / phillips drive /
whatever fits and hold squarely in contact with screw fitting and strike
smartly with 2 lb hand operated hammer SMAA !!! while rotating
in direction of "lose" for the intended servant screw.
Stubborn screws wil
I tried to replace a door strike (aka door locking eye) on 1983 300SD and
was unable to loosen the top two screws. The bottom two popped loose OK.
These screws seem very soft and the hex sockets deformed easily.
Question: Does anyone know any tricks to loosen these screws?
Thanks,
Scott
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