I've worked a good bit with all of the devices we're talking about. The AVR
micros are well loved, and quite good. That said, my colleagues and I
moving away from them, mostly to Cortex-M0s. Don't be fooled by the
prevalence of ARM chips in phones. Thats a whole different situation. The
Hi my name is eric and I am 17, I started of will no experience and I have
built a clock using a Arduino clone called anarduino, It's a very small module
type package. Having no previous programing skills I have completed my nixie
clock. My arduino gets the time from a Real Time Clock 1307, from
On 7/14/11 9:05 PM, neutron spin wrote:
Yes for the IN-17 design AVR would be my choice. I believe the AVR
Tiny series are made in surface mount packages. Sandwich construction
(Tube board stacked) and controller using mostly surface mount parts.
This would accomplish two of my objectives.t
Yes for the IN-17 design AVR would be my choice. I believe the AVR
Tiny series are made in surface mount packages. Sandwich construction
(Tube board stacked) and controller using mostly surface mount parts.
This would accomplish two of my objectives.to make a small
footprint nixie clock and h
| step by step switches would really be interesting..
Been done.
| I envision smaller compact designs...like four IN-17
| nixies on a board the size of a matchbox. I am sure this
| has been done already but not with a Cortex MCU
|
| Robert
If that's your objective, then an ARM may not be the way
Lots of speculation on the blue dot.
I don't think anyone has come up with an absolutely answer. Just guessing,
etc.
Yes of course. There is only one right answer.
http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/data/in18.htm
The blus spot is the mercury glowing if Ucc is too low.
All you need to do is
Lots of speculation on the blue dot.
I don't think anyone has come up with an absolutely answer. Just
guessing, etc.
I have sold hundreds of the IN-18. I used to consider the blue dot as
something I wanted to get rid of in my stock; however, I have changed my mind.
Now, I have about 5
Just what exactly causes that phenomenon? I've had a few IN-18's over the
years that have shown various blue dotsalways wondered what caused
themideas?
Nick
On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 7:03 PM, Tristan wrote:
> Having spent some time photographing the IN-18 "blue dot" phenomenon I
> can say
Having spent some time photographing the IN-18 "blue dot" phenomenon I
can say that it is a matter of balancing the ambient (or flash) light
with the emitted light. If getting up close it is a good idea to
manually set a small aperture (high F number) and using a longer
exposure so the depth of fie
I have seen all transistor logic designshorror of horrors!...but
it is a retro way of doing this. Perhaps using wire spring relays or
step by step switches would really be interestingbut it would need
a couple of racks to build...not really practical. I envision smaller
compact designs...
| I have an STK-500 that all it was ever used for was to
| burn some hex for a few chips ...
| I was checking on a little ARM MBED 1768 dev board from
| NXP and it also looked promising. ... if I learn on a more
| sophistated MCU perhaps that would be beneficial later on.
| ... may be overkill
| Re
Hey can you email me pics, I'm potentially interested.
I'm doing a 7971 projects in the Ultronics style (i.e. lots of them as an
alphanumeric display) I'd love to see them up close and I love to buy stuff
like that.
On 2011 Jul 14, at 05:30 , Terry S wrote:
> If anyone is interested, I have (5
Have you ever used that device? I bought one.. it is most definitely _not_
supported by AVR Studio. There was some attempt at some very buggy bridging
software to try to fake support, but it didn't work at all. I ended up
giving mine away. :)
I love an awful lot of Limor's stuff and her site in ge
> My single piece of advise when choosing an AVR programmer is to make sure
> that it is compatible with AVR Studio.
> A cheap DASA programmer or the USBTiny are great programmers, don't get me
> wrong.. But you're stuck dealing with them commandline from AVRdude.. I've
> got better things to do
I would stick to the AVR platform. It has a huge hobbyist userbase, so all
of your questions will be answered and you'll have no shortage of
interesting projects. There are a lot of PIC guys out there too, I'm not one
of them.. Also, there's TI's new offering, the MSP430. I prefer AVR because
the t
Hello Adam,
I have an STK-500 that all it was ever used for was to burn some hex for a
few chips I was experimenting with. I did compile some Bascom code for a
nixie design and it actually worked and then programmed an AVR chip for the
clock...yippie!!... So that is where I am right now. So
My single piece of advise when choosing an AVR programmer is to make sure
that it is compatible with AVR Studio.
A cheap DASA programmer or the USBTiny are great programmers, don't get me
wrong.. But you're stuck dealing with them commandline from AVRdude.. I've
got better things to do than to sit
On Jul 13, 3:06 pm, caliburgers wrote:
> Hi all!
>
> Looking for B-7971 sockets. Does anyone have 4 for sale?
>
> Regards,
> Don
As with many Nixie tubes, the sockets can be the hardest part to find.
Fortunately you can get pin receptacles that work fine, as do DB
connector female socket pins
Check out Bascom AVR from MCS Electronics if you like something
similar to Qbasic. If you want C, grab WinAVR, both are free.
The ATTINY2313 is a great chip, low cost, easy to get in both DIP and
SMT packages and it has WAY more than enough power for any
Nixie clock.
Any number of differe
Thanks Adam,
It seems that Stanislav Pechal's code is used by others as a starting point
for some of these clock designs. I appreciate the information and can learn
the basics. The code is pretty compact and has the basic features. The
display multiplexing was something I wanted to get a bet
I had a similar question a couple years ago. I found Stanislav Pechal's
nixie project. There's no strict license, but so far it has been a
share-a-like and give credit kind of thing. :) My (out of date, ugly code)
version:
http://www.jacobstribe.org/files/6-digit-12hr.zip
I spent a lot of time mo
On 14 Jul 2011, at 20:48, caliburgers wrote:
Hi, Terry, Would you be interested in selling 4 of the sockets for
the B-7971s?
On Jul 14, 2011, at 8:30 AM, Terry S wrote:
If anyone is interested, I have (5) B7971 dual driver boards... The
sockets have been removed
I would think probably not
Hi, Terry
Would you be interested in selling 4 of the sockets for the B-7971s?
Regards,
Don
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 14, 2011, at 8:30 AM, Terry S wrote:
> If anyone is interested, I have (5) B7971 dual driver boards, the
> Ultronics style, available for the nominal price of $25 plus shippi
Good information. I was checking on the M0 chip and the price point is
quite attractive...seems to compete with the AVR and PIC 8 bit MCU's. The
ability to move up to a more powerful chip is a plus. Starting out with the
M3 sounds like a great idea. I may order one of the dev kits and do som
The Cortex-M is a relative of the Cortex-A that powers millions of cell
phones and the Chumby. Its designed for Microcontroller use. The original
chip was the Cortex-M3 (I've designed these into lots of things), and now
there is the Cortex-M0, which was intended to compete in the marketplace
As a hobbyist, would the Cortex chip be a good platform for learning. I
know everyone hypes the Arduino environment for beginners but I would prefer
to go with something different. I assume this MCU would not be overkill for
a nixie clock design? I know these are used in devices as the Chumb
C Code is C code.Some differences are more important than others.
Interrupt behavior will affect your code at the high levels, and ever
company has its own peripherals with their own strengths and weaknesses.
The Cortex-M chips have a very powerful and user-friendly interrupt
controller.
On Jul 14, 5:44 pm, Nick wrote:
> I bought a cheapy light tent on eBay - a 40cm PhotoSEL as
> inhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/170626510059
>
> Came with 2 "daylight" floods. Does a nice job.
Here's a photo of one of John S's clocks:
http://www.desmith.net/NMdS/Nixies/P1020086.JPG
--
You received this
I bought a cheapy light tent on eBay - a 40cm PhotoSEL as in
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/170626510059
Came with 2 "daylight" floods. Does a nice job.
Nick
On Jul 14, 5:23 pm, jb-electronics
wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> given the thoughts in a different threads, I was curious what techniques
> you use to ph
Hi folks,
given the thoughts in a different threads, I was curious what techniques
you use to photograph Nixie tubes.
I am currently sick of my digicam, I am seriously thinking of purchasing
something real, along maybe with a light tent? Any ideas?
Looking forward to hearing your experience
|| experience with the OB3 voltage regulator tubes?
|| ... not nearly as bright as I have seen in pictures.
|| I am feeding it 175V, at about 60mA
|
| Cameras lie. Photos of glowing things are often much more
| glowy than the same objects appear to the eyeball.
|
| --
| David Forbes, Tucson AZ
I f
If anyone is interested, I have (5) B7971 dual driver boards, the
Ultronics style, available for the nominal price of $25 plus shipping.
The sockets have been removed, but the rest of the components are
there.
As always, I'm open to trades.
Terry.
--
You received this message because you are su
> Drat, and double drat. I was really hoping I had some defective tubes here.
> they look pretty and purple in the dark, but not so much with the lights on.
> Oh well, I'll stick to neon, and nixies I guess!
There are neon-based regulator tubes available. However, the gas mixes varied
dependi
Hi all!
Looking for B-7971 sockets. Does anyone have 4 for sale?
Regards,
Don
Sent from my iPhone
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Out of interest, do they all regulate OK? BTW, 60mA is prob high - my data
suggests that Ik is 5mA min and 30 to 40mA max. The min supply voltage starts
at 105V.
John K.
- Original Message -
From: Shane Ellis
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 3:3
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