No.. the clock is in view all day.. but I do have it shut down at night.
I did however get the GPS.
Kiran
On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 10:36:01 PM UTC-4, Jeff Walton wrote:
>
> Did you get the motion sensor? It's a good feature! I was pleased with
> it.
>
> Jeff Walton
>
>
>
> Origi
Did you get the motion sensor? It's a good feature! I was pleased with it.
Jeff Walton
Original message
From: Kiran Otter
Date: 05/14/2015 8:30 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tubehobby clock overheating
*Power supply voltage ?* If the supply voltage is higher, it will likely
cause more inductor/transformer current, and perhaps enough to cause
saturation, which leads to heating.
I've noticed a similar problem with my wristwatch. Even though I have
voltage-feedback from the HVDC supply, the curr
Hi Folks. I did have a poke at the board and the ghosting was apparently
caused by a flaky K155ID1 as replacement of it made the problem disappear.
However, when operating with my IN18 display board I didn't notice any
heating issues, but Kiran still did when I returned the board to him and
was usi
and like both clocks very much!
Jeff Walton
-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dan Hollis
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 2:50 PM
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Need help with a tu
Here are the two Pramanicin mentions with my scent on them:
http://www.badnixie.com/PV_Electronics_the_Spectrum.html
http://www.badnixie.com/The_Tangerine_Dream_%28Nocrotec_Blue_Dream%29.html
Anymore, Direct Drive is a must for me, because of the increased brightness
and both of these are. The t
Since I'm picky & stubborn, I do my own designs. That way I can only blame
myself. Snarkiness aside, making a production-worthy design is not trivial
and I'm sure that the few kits that are available are designed by engineers
who have day-jobs as well. On top of that, kits need to be affordable,
PV electronics sells a direct drive IN18 kit (the Spectrum). Dieter still
sells the direct drive 'Blue Dream' for IN18's also. They're both very nice.
Nick
On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 12:50 PM, Dan Hollis wrote:
> So what's the clock kit to get these days that doesn't have these problems?
>
> 1) ov
So what's the clock kit to get these days that doesn't have these problems?
1) overheating
2) blue spots
3) singing due to multiplex frequency being in audible range
-Dan
On Mon, 20 Apr 2015, Kiran Otter wrote:
Just an update for those morbidly curious...
I replaced several parts per Nick's
On 15-04-12 10:53 AM, Kiran Otter wrote:
I can't find the 2SA1266 transistor. Tried a cross-ref site and it gave
me 213 choices. x.x
http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/2SA1266pr.shtml
It is a Japanese type. but their are probably hundreds that would work...
use the specs in the link above
Kiran, PM me...I have all the parts you need and can send them to you for the
price of postage only.
Cheers,
Nick
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 12, 2015, at 07:53, Kiran Otter wrote:
>
> Ok, I need some help to know which parts to order..
>
> The inductor; I know it's 'inductance' is 270uh.
A faulty inductor with some windings short cuted will make switching
transistor go hot.
Kiran Otter skrev den 2015-04-10 17:12:
Well.. I replaced the voltage regulator with JT's part, it appears to
be working perfectly.. a solid 5V right on the mark. I also replaced C1.
The ghosting numbers
Kiran,
A sawtooth waveform would point to a bad C1. A waveform of a much higher
frequency would be from an oscillation and more superimposed on the DC.
As long as you are going to do some soldering anyway, you should just replace
the 7805 with the drop-in switcher that you received fro
I suspect they will "solve the problem" but at considerably more cost than two
small capacitors which should have been there in the first place. ...
Nick
On 30 March 2015 12:47:54 GMT+01:00, Kiran Otter wrote:
>Nick,
>
>Would replacing the 7805 with a 'non-isolated dc/dc converter' like Jon
>
>
Kiran,
If you get your scope running, check the output of U1 (7805 regulator) and look
for a very flat DC. If you see any type of sawtooth or superimposed
oscillation, replace C1. You can use a any higher value than 10uF as long as
it physically fits and has a high enough voltage rating.
Kiran,
If you get your scope running, check the output of U1 (7805 regulator) and look
for a very flat DC. If you see any type of sawtooth or superimposed
oscillation, replace C1. You can use a any higher value than 10uF as long as
it physically fits and has a high enough voltage rating.
Funny.
I bought many of his kits years ago.
I was always getting the spelling wrong.
So, I registered _www.peteskits.com_ (http://www.peteskits.com) and
simply redirected it to his site. Much easier to remember.
Michail
In a message dated 3/28/2015 12:15:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
I didn't look closely when I mentioned about how to properly use heatsink
compound.
Was it hot before you added the heatsink?
Was it hotter after?
You pondered why the heatsink might make it hotter:-
Someone mentioned maybe glue conducting.
I mentioned the glue might insulate the heat.
Overlap
On Sat, 28 Mar 2015, Terry Kennedy wrote:
On Saturday, March 28, 2015 at 7:55:48 AM UTC-4, Kiran Otter wrote:
Recently, I started to notice that other digits in the tubes were
partially lighting up, and eventually the fuse blew. My assumption was
that the K155ID1 drivers had started to go, so I
Could you have a faulty DS1307? Would that cause a timing issue?
Nick
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 28, 2015, at 15:23, Kiran Otter wrote:
>
> Niek,
>
> Yes, it's showing the seconds in the hour digit, and in the minutes digit..
> though not as strongly. If I force it to display the date or
Sorry, corrected link below. Phones are fun...
Kiran,
PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their "Spectrum" model uses the IN-18 nixies
and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage
when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice fea
Kiran,
PV Electronics makes a nice kit. Their "Spectrum" model uses the IN-18 nixies
and accepts a GPS and also has a motion sensor that turns off the high voltage
when no one is around to extend the life of the tubes. Really nice feature!
They also have a couple different cases available
Careful with epoxying a heatsink on. A heatconducting paste [dangerous chemical
usually] OR a very thin layer of heatsink compound and a clip holding the
heatsink is probably better. How much does the epoxy impede the heat flow?
[and note I said very thin re the compound?Just enough to fill the
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