I think this left to right oscillation is what I've always been feeling. I just
never realized what it was until I just let the bike do what it wanted and I
noticed it basically steering itself into a extremely low speed tank slapper.
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So my bike is now doing this really slow oscillation. At basically any speed.
Really slowly it banks itself left and then comes back to the right and the
left and then back right speeding with the oscillation speeding up each time.
It was doing this at neighborhood speeds. Think 20 mph. I loosen
Mike,
Welcome, and congratulations on the new to you bike!
The two holes in the exhaust are just that, holes in the exhaust. They are
there to let condensation drain out of the mufflers when the bike is cold
or off, so you don't get immediately rusty pipes.
The liquid is water, plus a little bit
Oh! Thanks. I will try that.
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Find the certification of the oil, and then find an oil that still meets
that cert. If I recall from the last time I was in a 650 final drive there
aren't any brass bits, so you should be okay.
As for synthetic, semi-synthetic, or conventional, either do fully
synthetic or fully conventional. No r
Ha! That's exactly it, with no hands you're mostly steering with your hips,
just slide over slightly on the seat or lean more the other way. Also, if
the road is cambered to allow for rain runoff the bike is going to follow
that downhill.
-Kyle
On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 9:17 AM, EGrider wrote:
>
Just had a quick question about changing the oil in my final drive. The
original recommendation is for 90w oil, for use over 40 degrees F. Since I
virtually never ride below that temperature, I figure that's the one to go
with. Is that still the case? It seems finding straight 90w is a bit
Sure. Move your wallet to your other pants pocket.
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I have been riding for over 30 years and y'all are making me feel like a newbie
with this discussion. I have never noticed any issues or ride qualities like
you are discussing.
Only thing I have to ask, though, is with hands off, if the bike slowly drifts
to one side, is this adjustable? Like
+1 on the above for me times 3 current and 3 past Nighthawks.
A choke restricts air thus drawing more fuel. And enrichener simply adds fuel
via another path to the carb.
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I was playing with the pressure this morning. 32front 40rear seems to have
cleaned up the wander as far as I can tell. Hopefully that was the issue.
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I've had two of these and they both acted the same. Regardless of the
weather, they need the choke on to start. They idle at 2K or so for a few
minutes. Then when they warm up, and how long this is depends on the
temperature, they speed up to 5K and I can turn the choke off. They're good
to go
If the bike stands up then the forks have too much preload or the triple
clamp can be lowered on the fork if static sag is right and you want to get
the bike balanced. 28 psi is low for most MC tires I usually run around 38
psi. Those static sag numbers are good.
Allen Thomas
On Aug 24, 2015 9:35
That is what I was thinking. Mine didn't need choke to start it during
summer. At least not after I tweaked the carbs.
Allen Thomas
On Aug 24, 2015 7:56 PM, "Brian Collett" wrote:
> I live in the middle of Missouri and I need the choke for the first 3 to 5
> minutes for both my 91 nighthawk and
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