On 26 Dec 2006 at 22:37, Jonathan wrote:
> After sitting for the last 7 years, my wife has convinced me to part
> with the 53 5-window 1/2 ton. Ran fine when parked, but needs battery,
> brakes redone, air in tires, etc. I see mice have started to make home
> under seat. 3 sp, radio, really pretty
I know this is posted somewhere, but I can't find it in the archives. My '51
needs new
vent glass and seals. Rather than removing the window frame (drilling out the
rivet,
etc.), is there not a way to remove the glass from the frame, replace the seals
(cutting a
slot to fit around the botto
My driver's side door glass was cracked, so I removed it and took it down to a
local
glass shop for a pattern. The new glass is .005 thicker and the thinest
setting tape he
had is much too thick. I will need tape about the thickness of Gorrilla tape
to set the
window glass in. Checking wit
I have a rusted out left front fender that I want to replace with a solid unit.
I have all the
bolts out but can't figure out how to remove the fender. Do I have to remove
the grille
completely? Radiator support? A step-by-step sequence would help me out a
bunch.
Thanks in advance! BW
Listers - If you look in the photo section under Harrison radiator, you will
find 2 pics of a
# 46 radiator which should fit 1940-1946 Chevy trucks. This is NOS and was
found in a
warehouse mislabeled for later model trucks. A fellow in Wisconsin wanted it,
but
backed out. It is heavy (35
Can't seem to find this in my shop manual. How does one adjust the horn on his
truck?
Mine quit blowing. It is the original Delco 6 volt horn on my 1951 Chevy. I
took the rear
cover off and have tried adjusting the lock nuts - I can get a "click - near
beep", but no
sustained vibration to
On 18 Jun 2006 at 14:38, rmarks10 wrote:
> hmmm...sounds even worse than I thought..I may reconsider.
> Roy
Not original, but a small carriage bolt, lock washer, and nut would work.
Carriage bolts
come in all shapes and sizes. Just thinking "out of the box". BW
Robert A. Wyant
Huntington, W
On 16 May 2006 at 12:32, Jeff Pohlar wrote:
> Does anyone know the correct placement of the 216 "Thriftmaster" decal
> that goes on the valve cover? Left side, right side, middle, forward,
> etc.
Right side and centered on the cover. A hair dryer helps seal it down and
prevents
bubbles on the
On 21 Apr 2006 at 18:44, fffinc_casey wrote:
> Hi all,
> In the continuing camshaft gear failure, I'm now looking for the
> following new parts:
>
> 1) 57 235 camshaft
> 2) 12 solid lifters for above
> 3) Full set of rocker arms
>
> Jim Carter is BO on these... with no delivery in sight.
> Other
On 27 Feb 2006 at 16:55, Rick N Wagner wrote:
> I use a 1/2 to 3/4 inch adapter to turn my 235 over. The 3/4 inch end
> should fit right in the end of the balancer pulley.
Was the 216 the last engine to have a crank insert on the harmonic balancer? I
can
crank my 1951 engine with a homemade "
On 13 Feb 2006 at 16:58, matt wrote:
> I hope this sparks some interesting discussion...
>
> First, let me give you all a little background before I poll the
> audience. I bought a 1949 Chevy 3100 a few weeks ago and just
> discovered the compression on the 216 engine is around 50 pounds on 4
>
On 23 Jan 2006 at 16:21, Scott Mountney wrote:
> Hey guys, I am gonna shut up about 70K Suburbans. =)
Scott or other members on the list: I am getting some messages that are
"strung out" more than the entire width of my computer screen from this list.
Are we all using the " wrap long lin
On 16 Dec 2005 at 14:15, Jonathan wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the correct application for this heater switch?
> Ebay #4597168941. Thanks
I have the same switch on my '51 1/2 ton, but the flip lever is marked "Air".
Robert A. Wyant
Huntington, WV
1951 Chevy 1/2 Ton
1973 Triumph Spitfire
Ole Che
On 3 Nov 2005 at 23:49, Ed Fallon wrote:
> Glad to hear you found a close match to the color on your truck.
> Since you made mention to "original paint", I thought you should know
> that Chevrolet didn't offer metallic paints on 1951 trucks. If it has
> metallic on it, it is probably an older re
For the better part of 2 years I have looked for the original paint that is on
my 1951 1/2
ton. The catalogs I have collected steered me to Dupont / other paints with
the options
of: Seacrest Green, Forester Green, Juniper Green, etc. The truck has a darker
green
paint, but did not come c
On 1 Nov 2005 at 19:56, James Tye wrote:
> 64601 Chillicothe, MO
Lats do it this way. Box up the valve cover and block off plate and send by
US Mail.
Email the shipping and Handling amount (along with your address) - I will send
out a
USPS Money Order to cover your costs. OK? Best Regard
On 1 Nov 2005 at 13:35, James Tye wrote:
>
> I am going to be getting rid of a heater block off plate, a 216 valve
> cover, and one steering box, though I'm not sure which one. These
are
> what I've come across so far. Anyone needing this stuff? If not, out
> it goes. (4t-54 chev 1/2 ton)
Ji
On 27 May 2005 at 21:03, vwnate1 wrote:
>
>
> Yes ;
>
> They crop up on a reglar basis at the larger auto swap meets , cheap
> too I'd not be wanting to advertise my home address these days
> tho'.
>
> Just a thought .
>
> Maybe you could put an old reggie from the P.O. in it...? . or dum
Anyone seen a repro of the old registration holders that fastened to the
steering
column? I remember one on my Dad's 1950 1/2 ton truck. Leather / clear
plastic
and held by two coil springs around the column. Neat little package. Bob W.
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, s
On 27 Apr 2005 at 20:12, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 4/27/2005 5:08:00 PM Central Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Its
> just an offer, if enough of you are interested fine.. Take it or leave
> it. Glad to help where I can.
A mighty task, Deve - there are over 100
On 29 Mar 2005 at 16:42, Dan Robinson wrote:
>
> lots of service manuals for the old carbs on this site
> http://chevy.tocmp.com/index.htm
> http://chevy.tocmp.com/Rochester/index.htm
That was it! Thanks, Dan. I will spend some time printing out info.
BW
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To u
On 29 Mar 2005 at 17:00, Lowery, Jim wrote:
>
> Bee-Dubya, this may help
> http://www.carburetorfactory.com/expvw21.html
Thanks, Jim - I have this schematic. The bulletin I refer too looks as if it
were
copied / scanned from a Service Bulletin for AD Trucks. I hate losing good
links -
wi
I lost a link for Rochester carb repair that was posted here or on Stovebolt.
It was an illustrated service bulletin from the 40's /50's and showed internals
of the
B carb and step-by-step trouble shooting. I was going to print it out and tuck
it in the
shop manual, but have lost the link. T
On 21 Mar 2005 at 14:31, Lowery, Jim wrote:
>
> Self-correction: I'm sure the bushings are badly needing replacement.
> But I realize now what I witnessed "naked" was the lower-end of the
> actual control shaft - it was wet with shiny grey grease, and the
> bracket on the fist-sized unit that t
On 18 Mar 2005 at 1:18, badewitt82 wrote:
>
>
> Help
>
> My wife has been reading over my sholder and asked me what SWMBO
> stands for? I started thinking about it and can't for the life of me
> tell what the acronym stands for. Can anyone clue me in?
"She Who Must Be Obeyed"!
Ole Chevy
My odometer quit registering last summer, but the speedo worked reading about
5-6 mph fast (" 45 mph" was actually about 40). Was out driving today and the
needle came to rest at the 80 mph position when I pulled into the house. Cable
is
not kinked - nice and steady needle reading although I
On 2 Feb 2005 at 16:25, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Sorry, I agree.
> Tom has a master Cylinder
> Chardon, OH
I will take it. Figure shipping to:
Robert A. Wyant
3990 Green Valley Rd.
Huntington, WV 25701
Thanks, BW
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no su
On 2 Feb 2005 at 15:19, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Free for shipping: I have a master cylinder from my 1951 GMC 1/2 ton
> pickup that is about 4 years old.
> Don't need it as I installed a dual last spring.
> Act now or it goes in the trash!
> Tom
Listers - Would it not be a good idea to for
On 8 Jan 2005 at 11:27, Deve wrote:
>
> There is an article about all that in my How-To section on my web site. The
> larger one is a better idea for this kind of work.
How about respirators for outdoor sandblasting? What is
recommended? Using Super-Fine Silica can cause serious health
pro
On 6 Jan 2005 at 14:05, Tom C wrote:
>
> Jim...and anyone else...please let me know what you find. I didn't know if
> grease or some other kind of lubricant is supposed to go in that box, but it
> looked like very old grease currently in there. I decided to go ahead and
> put grease in it.
On 31 Oct 2004, at 12:08, t80c26 wrote:
anybody running a 216 with babbitts and 6 volt
> system?
I have a '51 1/2 ton with 216 / 6 volt and am using 20w50.
If so, what are you using and do you have trouble with winter
> starts?
No, but everything must be in good order - timing, points, dwel
On 26 Oct 2004, at 17:52, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Not sure if the u-joint let loose or the tranny but I had a terrible
> noise and lost power and had to shut her down and call AAA.
Before you pull the transmission, check the U-joint. You can do it
from the cab, but easier if you drop the c
On 29 Aug 2004, at 17:32, John S. wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> I'm still not satisfied with the way my 216 runs in my '45. It's
> seems to backfire through the carb and I can't get it to idle very
> low. If I set the timing with the vacuum line plugged off and then I
> plug the vacuum line back in, I
On 28 Aug 2004, at 14:57, t80c26 wrote:
> Uh oh, Bob...thats the dry element filter. I have one of those, too
> and figured that one out by the shape. The one for the oil bath is
> rectangular.
The instructions on the "semi-circular" lable are for the oil bath type.
I just went out to read it. B
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