Less Europe, More Islam

By Annette Grossbongardt 

SPIEGEL ONLINE - November 2, 2006, 04:38 PM 
URL: http://www.spiegel.
<http://www.spiegel.de/international/spiegel/0,1518,446163,00.html>
de/international/spiegel/0,1518,446163,00.html 


TURKEY IN TRANSITION


For almost half a century, Turkey has been pursuing European Union
membership. With negotiations now started though, enthusiasm is waning. And
the influence of Islam is on the rise.

At first glance, the "Sah Inn Suite" Hotel in Alanya looks no different from
the average sunny resort along the Turkish Mediterranean coast: a bulky
construction with a honeycomb of balconies, looking out over a generous
swimming pool surrounded by parasols and lounge chairs. But, in fact, only
men are allowed to take a refreshing plunge into these shimmering blue
waters. Women vacationers at the Sah-Hotel swim in a strictly isolated pool
for women. And what about a cold beer? Forget it. There is no alcohol here;
instead, a mosque offers communion with God. 

Why the piety? It's an effort by hoteliers to show their consideration for
observant Muslims who want to enjoy "a vacation in keeping with religious
laws." And the options for such devout holidays are growing in secular
Turkey. Islamic-style swimsuits are the new rage on the beaches and around
pools across the country. Nowadays, observant women venture onto the sands
clad head-to-toe. Manufacturer of these chaste outfits is the Istanbul
fashion firm Hasema, whose customers include the wives of leading
politicians of the governing AKP, the religious-conservative Justice and
Development Party.

The Cumhuriyet newspaper, which tends to be critical of the AKP, already
considers Turkey to be "besieged by Islamic dress regulations." The secular
press meticulously covers all violent incidents that appear to be
religiously motivated: a young, bikini-clad student attacked by cloaked
religious fanatics for example; or a couple assaulted for openly drinking
beer during the fasting month of Ramadan. A police officer hit a girl
because she was supposedly wearing a skirt that was too short. These are
shocking incidents in Turkey, where laws are supposed to protect against
religious paternalism, where restaurants are open during Ramadan and where
headscarves are banned at universities, schools and public offices.

The state radio-control has visited Islamist broadcasters that -- under
names like "Radio Full Moon" or "Tulip Rose" in -- rail against Christians
and Jews in so-called "religious talk shows," or warn women not to shake
men's hands and remind them to behave modestly.

The Muslim Three Muskateer

Even political censorship, which in itself is not unheard of in Turkey, is
now practiced in the name of religious modesty. Last week, for example, the
ministry of education set off a storm of anger with its regulation decreeing
that images of the well-known Delacroix painting "Liberty Leading the
People" be removed from schoolbooks. The reason: the bare breasts of the
standard-bearer in the depiction of France's 1830 July Revolution.

Islamic bathing costumes are becoming more popular in Turkey these days.AFP

Islamic bathing costumes are becoming more popular in Turkey these days.

Recently, the ministry of education itself was outraged over the fact that
several publishing companies had, on their own initiative, rewritten
children's books that the ministry had recommended for classroom use. In the
edited versions, Pinocchio, Heidi and Tom Sawyer live in an Islamic world
where inhabitants wish each other a "blessed morning" or ask for food "in
Allah's name." Aramis, one of the Three Musketeers, even converts to Islam. 

Is Turkey really becoming more Islamic? And particularly now, after coming
so far on the way towards Europe? What is undeniable is that, one year after
the opening of accession talks with the EU, the atmosphere in Turkey, with
its 99 percent Muslim population, is increasingly anti-European,
anti-Western and more nationalistic. Only one third of Turks support
membership in the European Union, according to a survey published last week
in the daily Milliyet -- a dramatic change for Turks, who have been big fans
of Europe for so long.

A good a week before the planned publication of the latest EU-Progress
Report, the government in Ankara now fears a further worsening of the
climate. If the report is, as expected, negative -- sharply critical of the
judiciary and the limited freedom of opinion, as well as the Turkish
relation to the status of Cyprus -- then Turkey is on the verge of a
"massive shock," the nation's papers say.

"Europe only wants us to assimilate"

Many, even pro-Western Turks, feel that Europe has criticized them unfairly,
or even repelled them. "The eastern European states were supported to an
incredible degree, practically pushed into EU membership -- that can't be
said about Turkey," protests Cem Duna, board member of the powerful
industrial association Tüsiad, which continues to advocate for EU accession.
Religious Turks, on the other hand, are primarily disappointed that Europe
and the EU-friendly AKP have failed to bring greater religious freedoms.
"Our women who wear headscarves still are not permitted to study," complains
Ali Bulaç, columnist for the Islamic newspaper Zaman. The circulation of
religiously oriented publications has tripled in recent years.

When the AKP first came to power four years ago, Bulaç was still
enthusiastic about Turkish accession. But then the European Court of Human
Rights ruled that Turkey was justified in excluding headscarf-clad women
from the classroom. Bulaç recalls angrily how his own wife was barred from
their daughter's graduation ceremony because of her headscarf. Now he
declares: "We have to find another way, perhaps by looking towards Asia or
the Middle East. Europe only wants us to assimilate."

The influential columnist represents an emerging religious sector in Turkish
society. Like their secular counterparts, many religious Turks have also
profited from the economic recovery of recent years. A new religious
bourgeoisie has been the result, and they now want to take advantage of
their newly won affluence.

"Anyone who is rich and religious can live happily in his own world," says
Islam expert Serif Mardin. "You buy Islamic designer fashion, drive an
expensive car with tinted windows, get your Internet from a fellow believer,
use an Islamic bank and relax at separate swimming pools." In Istanbul,
where rich Turks often live in guarded luxury, there are now also separate
districts for practicing Muslims. And the rise of this new, self-confident
Islamic sector is tipping the hard-won balance between secular and Islam in
Turkey. 

Economist, kick boxer, and modern woman

Western-oriented Turks fear that their country's image is suffering. "Anyone
who does not know Turkey wonders how I can live here as a modern woman --
and it's great here," says Ümit Boyner, board member of the eponymous
textile firm in Istanbul. This 42-year-old economist, also a kick boxer, has
headed a campaign by the trade association aimed at improving Turkey's
image. "We want to show that a land with an Islamic identity is completely
compatible with Europe." For Boyner, Turkey is "forever a secular state."

But that is exactly what is at risk, warn the Kemalists, who see themselves
as upholders of the secular teachings of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. These
profoundly worldly Turks, who used to be the nation's elite, feel threatened
by the creeping Islamization of society. Specifically, they point to the
fact that, under the AKP, the religious sectors of society have been
reintroduced into the state bureaucracy.

Under Prime Minister Tayyip Erdogan, adherence to laws meant to protect
secularism has been lax, complains Ural Akbulut, rector of the Technical
University in Ankara. One already sees women with headscarves at some
universities, he points out. "On my campus, no one is permitted to show up
in a religious uniform," Akbulut emphasizes. "If we lift the ban on
headscarves, then they would come tomorrow in a chador and the next day in a
burka. In the end they would be beating up girls who wear modern dress. We
have seen in Iran how fast it can happen."

Just recently, Akbulut discussed the dangers to the Republic with his friend
Ilker Basbug, commander of the Turkish Army. Basbug, in a widely regarded
appearance, publicly warned about a "fundamentalist threat" to Turkey that
has reached "alarming dimensions." Erdogan, for his part, vehemently rejects
the charge. "We want to bring Turkey to Europe," insists an Erdogan-insider,
"and we are staying the course."

The English-language paper, The New Anatolian, has also addressed the
question on its Web site in a piece wondering whether Erdogan will turn
Turkey into a second Iran. It's not yet that far. Turkey is becoming more
conservative, says economic adviser Sinan Ülgen, "but we are not on the way
to an Islamic state." Still, the AKP wants to give "more space to the
religious agenda, and create a new balance between secularism and religion."


Watching the imams

Even the President of Religious Affairs of Turkey Ali Bardakoglu, is
convinced that "secularism and modernity" are "irrevocably and deeply
anchored in the Turkish identity." The Religious Affairs Directorate (RAD)
under Bardakoglu is one of the key positions for state control of religion.
Turkey's 70,000 imams are public servants who answer to the RAD. Friday
sermons are closely watched to prevent the preaching of hate. "In Turkey, we
nurture a moderate and tolerant Islam," Bardakoglu emphasizes.

He himself is a liberal who is certainly not loved by many ultra-religious
Muslims. The headscarf is not at all required, says this learned theologian
and lawyer. "A Muslim is not determined by what he wears, by whether he
drinks alcohol or wears a beard." Anyone who defines religion that way
contradicts "the essence of Islam," suggests this watcher of the faith.




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© SPIEGEL ONLINE 2006
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