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www.insideindonesia.org
Inside Indonesia no.69, January-March 2002



Jakarta's poorest


Lea Jellinek


Jakarta's poorest tend to be hidden at the dead ends of pathways or on the
river edge. Often their houses are in corners, along dark narrow alleyways
where sun, air and light do not enter, even during the day. Otherwise their
homes are perched on foul smelling drains or rest up against concrete walls.


The poorest often have difficulty communicating. They are used to being
ignored. Some hardly look into your eyes but down and away so it is hard to
have a conversation. They are ashamed. If you ask them about their
background and history, they look blank - as if they have no memory. They
speak in a mixture of dialects, slur their sentences and cannot explain
their problems.


The poorest lack time. They cannot talk for long as they are looking all day
for the money they need to buy food. Those who come to their homes find
their doors bolted. 'They are out', a neighbour says. 'Gone looking for
work.'


At 7 am one morning, we go to meet Ibu Ani, and find her walking through the
local market place. She is a masseuse. She does not sit at home waiting for
clients but seeks them out. We go back to her house to talk, but within half
an hour she looks agitated. She says she must go out to look for work. Often
she works till 10 pm, and then returns home to darn holes in clothing for
her extended family.


The poorest have only their unskilled labour to sell. They tend to be
masseurs, washerwomen, day labourers, guards, parking attendants, or 'Pa
Ogah' - as they are oddly called - people who help cars do a U turn in the
middle of the road. They seek work on a daily basis. They do not have the
capital, confidence or skills for petty trade.


Up to four families, four generations, often live together in one tiny
house. Ibu Ani, a grandmother, lives with three related families in her
shack - a total of fifteen people - so she needs at least Rp 30,000 to feed
them. That is four to six hours of massage per day and many hours of looking
for clients.


The members of the family sleep side by side on the floor - no mattress,
just pillows. During the day these pillows are stacked in a pile and the
room is converted into a place for sitting and eating. An alcove in the roof
with little light or air may be built above the room to create more sleeping
space. People climb up a steep, rickety ladder to get there.


Flimsy


The homes of the poorest are built of flimsy materials: bamboo, cardboard,
chicken wire, newspaper, tin cans, boards and other scavenged materials. The
gaps in the walls let in some air but also the rain. They feel embarrassed
by these flimsy structures. If the ground is wet, they have a bench to sleep
on, for they are often close to rivers which flood knee-deep. Apart from the
bench there is only a rack for clothing and dishes.


Electric lighting is rare. They use a kerosene lamp and, if their children
are lucky enough to go to school, they gather like flies around the lamp to
do their homework. Everything is done on the floor. Many of the poorest
cannot read, write, or sign their names. They are embarrassed to write. With
difficulty, they hold pen to paper and try to write their name.


Toilet and washing facilities are shared. For most water and toilet needs,
the poorest usually have to walk some distance - sometimes along the narrow
banks of sewage canals - to communal bathing facilities. Sometimes these
cost Rp100-200 for urination and Rp300 for defecation or a bath. The poorest
have to find ways of not paying these fees for they lack the money. To avoid
paying for rubbish collection and sanitation, they throw everything into
dirty canals or empty spaces around their homes.


It is a hard life with the mosquitoes, fleas, heat and filth. Their houses
are often within metres of where everybody dumps rubbish. Sometimes the
rubbish goes right into their homes, or it is burned nearby. There is a
constant smell of burning plastic and smoke.


In the homes of the poorest, there is often an ill person lying in the
background. Ibu Ani is very small, thin, and she limps. As we sit together
on the floor, she keeps massaging her leg which looks thin, stiff and weak.
Years ago she had a knee injury which was not treated. Now one part of the
knee sticks out. Her face is hollow and sunken from suffering, and other
parts of her body seem oddly disconnected.


Ibu Ani has lived in Jakarta since childhood and was orphaned at an early
age. She explains that she has often been homeless and sought shelter in
graveyards. She recalls the dark nights, the loneliness, the mud and the
rain. Years ago she had one trip out of the city, to Bandung. The local
government women's group organised it. She remembers it as the greatest
journey of her life - acres of paddy, mountains, trees, blue sky, talk,
laughter, friends in the bus and new experiences. Her face glows as she
recalls the journey. 'When can I do it again?'


Lea Jellinek ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) has written extensively - also in
'Inside Indonesia' - about how the poor cope.




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