http://www.omanobserver.com/

Thursday December 17, 2009 / Dhul-Hajja 30, 1430 AH


Halal food in Paris hotel
By Vicky Buffery and Laurent Hamida



IN a stylishly decorated restaurant in the heart of Paris, tucked between 
Bastille and Place de la Nation, Sophia Tabet is perusing a typical French 
menu, including foie gras, beef fillet and duck confit. But unlike other French 
eateries, this one offers no alcohol list, and all food is prepared strictly in 
accordance with the principles of Islamic sharia law. "We all eat halal food. 
It's nice to have a change, to be able to eat French gastronomy that's halal," 
said Tabet, 29, a customer adviser at a large financial services company. 
Tabet is on a girls' night out with work colleagues at Les Enfants Terribles, 
one of a new breed of up-market halal restaurants that have sprung up in and 
around Paris, catering to a growing population of young Muslim professionals. 
Born and educated in France, they have similar culinary tastes and social lives 
to their non-Muslim counterparts, but eating out can be a disappointing 
experience, restricted to fast food outlets, or the vegetarian option on the 
menu.

"Before, eating halal in Paris, you were pretty much limited to pizzerias or 
kebab shops," said Kamel Saidi, 32, who opened Les Enfants Terribles two years 
ago with his brother. "I was born in France, I grew up in France and I was 
frustrated because I wasn't able to enjoy good traditional French food," he 
said. Literally translated, halal means "permissible", and defines foods that 
Muslims are allowed to eat under Islamic law. Pork is strictly forbidden, as is 
alcohol. 

Halal meat must be slaughtered in the name of Allah and the animals' throat 
slit to allow blood to drain before consumption. For Muslims, this rules out a 
wide range of traditional French fare, but also restricts choice in the more 
cosmopolitan eateries, such as Thai and Chinese, that have become a feature of 
the French culinary landscape. In a country famed for its rich cuisine and 
passion for food, halal can therefore prove something of a social handicap.

"What if you want to invite a colleague out? You can't really ask a French 
non-Muslim to the kebab shop," said Saidi. France recently launched a debate on 
the issue of its national identity, aimed at defining its essential unifying 
values and reclaiming a renewed sense of patriotism. The conversation has 
zeroed in on France's mainly Muslim immigrants, and the question of whether 
their presence is diluting France's social and cultural character. But lost in 
this debate are the growing number of second and third generation Muslims who 
share the tastes and aspirations of a modern non-Muslim youth, and are seeking 
to reconcile their religious values with a strong sense of Frenchness.

Dhieb Lagnab, 31, of Tunisian descent, recently opened a chic Thai restaurant, 
Le Wok Saint Germain, on Paris' Left Bank, tapping into a growing urban trend 
for international cuisine. "Personally, as a Frenchman, I don't identify with 
my parents, but more with the young generation of French people who are opening 
Asian restaurants," he said. "The only difference is that in my case, it's 
halal."

France has Europe's largest Muslim community, estimated at over 5 million 
people or 8 per cent of the population. Already, the market for shop-bought 
halal food products is valued at 4 billion euros ($5.90 billion) and growth is 
expected to reach 10 per cent per year up to 2012, according to a study by 
Paris-based consultancy Xerfi. For Saidi, the gamble has already paid off - two 
years after opening Les Enfants Terribles, he is fully booked every night, and 
plans to open a second venue elsewhere in the city


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