http://arabnews.com/lifestyle/article199027.ece

A Dutch scholar's chronicle of 19th century Makkah
Group portrait of sharif Yahya with camel slave and two lower sharifs. 1 of 3
By DALIA MATTAR, life.st...@arabnews.com 

Published: Nov 24, 2010 15:43 Updated: Nov 24, 2010 20:09 

As you step into The Empty Quarter Gallery in Dubai's Financial Center, you are 
instantly greeted with Makkah's busy markets and streets and detailed vintage 
black and white photographs of the city and its inhabitants. 

Under the patronage of Princess Reem Al-Faisal, the gallery - in collaboration 
with Netherland's Leiden University Library and Hes & De Graaf Publishers - 
showcases an exquisite collection of the daily sights, sounds and lives of the 
Makkan society during the late 19th century. The exhibit, titled "Mecca - A 
Dangerous Adventure," features re-photographed and re-produced platinum prints 
of the works of renowned Dutch scholar, Christiaan Snouck Hurgronje 
(1857-1936). 

Hurgronje, a theology student at Lieden University, was born in Oosterhout, 
Netherlands in 1857.  He later became a scholar in Oriental cultures and 
languages, and was consequently appointed as an adviser on the Native affairs 
of the colonial Netherlands East Indies.

"He was fascinated with different kinds of religions, but was specifically 
interested in the teachings and belief system of Islam. He was also fluent in 
Arabic," said Elie Domit, Gallery Partner and Curator.

In 1880, Hurgronje wrote his doctorate thesis titled "Het Mekkansche Feest" 
(The Festivities of Makkah), which described the Haj pilgrimage and its 
customs. During that time period, European governments started to notice the 
Muslim population's support of liberation efforts taking place in the Dutch and 
European colonies, and considered Makkah as a hub for Muslim fanatics. In 1884, 
through a partial funding from the Dutch government, Hurgronje was sent to 
Jeddah for the sole purpose of surveying the lives of these Makkan "fanatics." 
However, his personal interests in the Holy City and the religion engaged him 
with ulterior motives for the trip.

As he couldn't enter the jurisdictions of Makkah, Hurgronje first landed in the 
port city of Jeddah and immediately began to socialize within the city's elite 
circles. In order to gain access into the Holy City, as well as the trust of 
citizens and government officials, he publicly converted to Islam and became 
known as Abd Al-Ghaffar. In Jan. 21 1885, he finally set forth on his 
much-anticipated journey.

During his short but comprehensive seven-month stay in Makkah, he observed and 
chronicled the daily lives of the local society through photos, written 
memoirs, and sound recordings. These chronicles comprised much of the material 
for Bilder Aus Mekka (Makkah in the Latter Part of the 19th Century), which 
constitutes one of today's most important visual memoirs of the Holy City.

"During that time, Makkah had one of the largest slave markets in the world, 
and Hurgronje was amazed with the humane way this trading was conducted. A 
slave was treated as a member of the family," said Domit.

Hurgronje also thought highly of Makkan women; he thoroughly described their 
social standing, fashion sense and the abundance of liberties they had in 
comparison to women in Eastern cities at the time.

His growing interest in Makkah heightened suspicions among European 
governments. Soon after, Hurgronje generally became known as a spy, imposter 
and undoubtedly one of the few Oriental scholars of that time. Shortly after 
his marriage to an Ethiopian woman, Hurgronje received a deportation order when 
the French government accused him of stealing the Taima stone. Consequently, he 
had to flee the country, quickly gathering his notes and photographs, while 
leaving his camera equipment to his friend and photography student, Al-Sayyid 
Abd Al-Ghaffar.

Upon his arrival to the Netherlands, Hurgronje began writing articles on Makkan 
topics and was thereafter considered an authority on the subject. Hurgronje and 
Al-Sayyid Abd Al-Ghaffar were in constant correspondence, exchanging updated 
information and photographs of the Holy City. This led to the creation of 
Hurgronje's second album, which mostly contained portraitures of Haj pilgrims.

Hurgronje's renowned support of the Saudi cause prompted Saudi princes to pay 
three state visits to Holland between 1926 and 1935. For a foreigner to take 
such deep interest in the Makkan culture, religion and its teachings prior to 
the wide availability of information through media and telecommunications, is 
what makes this collection even more unique.

"This documentation was a testimony to what Islam is all about. He didn't 
document it from a biased perspective," said Domit.

Hurgronje is to this date one of the few Europeans who has had a direct 
educational experience of the Holy City. The Haj pilgrimage is an appreciation 
of just that; a time where millions of Muslims from around the world come 
together to love, learn and live our Holy City, Makkah Al Mukarramah. 

For more information on The Empty Quarter gallery and this exhibit, visit 
www.theemptyquarter.com.


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