I really like my Baggins Boxy rando bag, and still am very impressed at how
solid the Nitto F-15 front rack is. Only problem is that the Baggins bag
was pretty darn floppy when I got it here on the list. Right when I got it
I made a corroplast floor and back wall for it, which gave it a lot
I have a Strada wireless and (once so far) had the same experience. Wish I
had taken a photo. Details here:
http://lawschoolissoover.wordpress.com/2014/08/06/they-often-call-me-speedoleaving-the-bike-lane/
On Monday, September 15, 2014 9:24:02 PM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
I use the
Wasn't speaking of generator lights. Specifically battery lights. Mainly
lights that can and/or do flash. It happened with a Niterider Mako that
has a constant flashing red side light and also with a Cateye light that
was set to flashing.
Have also discovered a number of areas in the Twin
On 09/16/2014 06:53 AM, Eric Platt wrote:
As to battery strength, hard to say for certain. Neither of the
wireless units I tried lasted more than a couple of months. It is
possible the battery was weak by the second month. Unsure of actual
reliability of wireless computer batteries.
I
Tim,
For sure two struts to mid fork fork braze ons and the diving board...although
I DO have top of the fork mounting bolts too and have been considering trying
the 4 strut boogie.
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I have the same experience as Steve P: my Strada's batteries seem to last
a year. I replace both (transmitter and receiver) at the same time, though
it's likely I don't need to.
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:14:56 AM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 09/16/2014 06:53 AM, Eric Platt wrote:
yeah, that's a lot better than the nude that came off just about every
Basic terminal in the 70s
On Monday, September 15, 2014 5:47:10 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Wow. Just wow.
http://sfglobe.com/?id=12535src=share_fb_new_12535
Riv content: quality steel used in wondrous ways to
I'm much more willing to replace my front wheel vs. the rear in the event
someone has cable cutters, so this is how I lock my Hilsen for longer stops:
http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/.
Read the Sheldon Brown link for an optimal minimalist
+1. I had a skip in the big ring, small cog. Tightening the cable worked. I
used the barrel adjuster, 1.5 turns.
On Monday, September 15, 2014 7:52:27 PM UTC-5, Brian Campbell wrote:
Is the shifter cable tight enough? Nice bike. I had one just like it.
Heavy beast for sure!
On Monday,
If I have to choose (usually I don't) I'll protect the front first for two
reasons.
1. I usually run a dynohub, so that wheel is expensive to replace
2. I anticipate that the casual thief (my nemesis) will eschew getting
him- or herself greasy. Rear wheels are generally harder and messier
In my experience, the 4-strut mounting
https://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/7617926224/in/set-72157627342403464
is much more secured and stable than the two struts plus the diving board.
Using the struts at fork crown also cleans up the area around and under the
brake holes for less
I know this bike/rider, it's a great value considering the condition and
the top shelf build - Nitto lugged stem, Nitto cages, Dura Ace, Phil Wood,
Chris King, XTR,etc.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/4655702328.html.
Greg
Seattle
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I put about 2000 miles on my Sam-with-C17 this summer. I didn't realize how
comfortable it was until yesterday when I got on my Scott CR1 for the first
time in months and realized how comfortable that saddle *wasn't*.
Regarding your specific question, no sticking. I tend to shift position a
Thanks, everyone, for the varied responses! Patrick, what you are saying
resonates deeply. I'm a lifelong map guy, and have not yet embraced the use
of electronic devices in the field, apart from occasional consultation with
Google Maps on the iphone. Partly because I am comfortable relying on
I suppose it might've been a touch of overkill, but, my approach was:
I zip-tied my Wald to a Platrack, which I can then mount or remove from the
front rack as needed...
The Platrack adds a touch of weight, but, it's durable, makes a good
platform for the basket.
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Brad-
I'll include all the hardware shown on the Rivbike photos. But I'll keep
the (used) P-clamps if you don't need them. I have plenty of bikes without
braze-ons.
PM me your shipping address.
Tim
On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 9:09 AM, franklyn sini...@msn.com wrote:
In my experience, the
Wow, where do you live where there is such prominent bike theft, Andrew?
The rare clues of bike theft that I've seen in our Minneapolis suburbs are
orphan front wheels locked to a bike rack. Apparently the owners didn't
understand the meaning of quick release skewers!
On Tuesday, September 16,
Oh, this would be a consummation devoutly to be wished! Wish I could try it
immediately, but it’ll have to wait till tonight. (And, boy, will I feel silly
if that turns out to be all that’s required!) Thanks all for your suggestions.
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
I want to put together a couple more wide-low doubles based on 110/74
triple cranks. The 44/28 I put together on a 130/74 triple shifts
much better than I anticipated, even with unpinned/ramped chainrings..
So I was thinking maybe could go 18 teeth? Thinking 44/26. I run
11-34 in the back and
Yes, and those Sachs ergo shifters are boss. They're basically Campy
Record, with cosmetic differences. Very solid action.
I have a full Sachs gruppe (minus hubs) on my Giordana gofast, and I just
picked up some '96 Athena ergos for my Riv (7 speed freewheel cog spacing
is the same as 8 speed
Are you sure you need a cue sheet? Your smart phone may give you a map
function with your position. In most cases it should be enough to check
that when you are in doubt about where to go next, or you know you are so
lost and out of time or acceptable weather that a return route must be
found
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:31:11 AM UTC-4, Sean Cleary wrote:
Wow, where do you live where there is such prominent bike theft, Andrew?
The rare clues of bike theft that I've seen in our Minneapolis suburbs are
orphan front wheels locked to a bike rack. Apparently the owners didn't
Tom: You know how much I love the Mongoose ATBs... Both the chromed and the
reds. Yours is a beautiful build, and your friend will love it no doubt. I
have the exact same one (in a big size) that I'm looking to customize. These
last forever and are awesome all-around bikes. Peace, BB
--
I was living in Hyde Park (Chicago, IL) in the '80s. My front wheel walked
off over the course of 30 minutes--the rest of the bike locked with a flat
Kyrptonite to a fence in front of my girlfriend's apartment. I saw bikes
missing wheels in front of Regenstein library, and cut bike locks
I have taught the same sort of lesson twice, the most recent just a few days
ago. A worker at our corner deli had been locking her bike to a 2 pylon in
front of our house (I placed it there to prevent the parallel parking
challenged from backing into our newly planted sidewalk tree). The pipe
I run a 26-42 jump on my Cyclotouriste triple with super smooth ramps.
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:42:54 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:
I want to put together a couple more wide-low doubles based on 110/74
triple cranks. The 44/28 I put together on a 130/74 triple shifts
much better
Nice work. I've always wanted Boxy Bag, but by the time I got around to
purchasing one, the were out of stock then discontinued. But I do have the
Baggins panniers, a Hoss saddlebag, and the bigger Baggins handle bar bag.
Nice fabrication project. Thanks for sharing. I'll to keep an eye out for
At one point I was running a TA Cyclotouriste 46/26T double on a climbing
build. Two derailleurs handled this 20T jump nicely: Huret Jubilee and
Suntour continuous band. The Huret handled it the best, and the couple of
times my bike dropped a chain (due to my own fault for not adjusting the
Hi everyone, thanks for checking out these items I put up for sale. All
the items are now sold, pending payment, and will be shipped this week.
If any of the deals fall through, I'll repost the item for sale.
Thanks,
Rusty
On Saturday, September 13, 2014 4:01:04 PM UTC-4, Rusty Click
the beauty of a cue sheet over a smartphone-based navigation system is that the
cue sheet is always on, and easy to view/read while moving. It never runs out
of battery power. Stopping to check the navigation on a smartphone is...
stopping. On a brevet, which the OP is planning to do, one
The beauty of this comment is that it highlights one I wish they'd make
that product. A cuesheet/map/navigation/GPS Brevet APP for the Kindle
paperwhite. Ideally the device with the paperwhite display would also have
a camera so you could submit your receipts or proof of passage
I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it
certainly makes a point. It must be kind of cathartic to destroy stuff.
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I sent the link to a friend who is enthralled by carbon (he has an old
steel bike and is contemplating a new bike). He said the fork wars were
instructional.
I'm not sure what that means. Sardonic grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
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It means I could beat a big galoot like you in a fork sword fight if I
could just trick you into picking the carbon one. Otherwise I can be
expected to fail suddenly and catastrophically
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:54:07 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
I sent the link to a friend who
I understand that. I meant what it means about if it converted him away
from carbon.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 12:09:50 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
It means I could beat a big galoot like you in a fork sword fight if I
could just trick you into picking the
Will this lead to a one less carbon fork button one day? haha
On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 2:15 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:
I understand that. I meant what it means about if it converted him away
from carbon.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 12:09:50 PM
Eric,
The *old* RM-014 is the new RM-013; the new RM-014 has the 31.8, but the
old one is smaller in the clamp diameter
On Sunday, September 14, 2014 11:47:48 PM UTC-4, Eric Cardella wrote:
I see a RM-014, which has a 31.8mm clamp diameter. No 26.0mm options that
I can see.
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You
I had a coworker at the bike shop that renamed Campy 1010 dropouts. He
called them 7-11 dropouts.
The reason he called them 7-11 dropouts was that he'd open the rear QR when
he leaned the bike over for a quick trip into 7-11. Because of the
horizontal dropouts, if you grabbed the bike and
I've got a wide low double I put together on a Sugino xd with an 18 tooth jump.
It's a 42-24, and it's been perfect for the riding I do. The rings are not
pinned or ramped. The derailleur is a Campy Mirage, everything friction shifted
with silvers.
The only adjustment I've had to make is to
That'll work just fine . I've ran a 48/44/26 and never had a problem
shifting up/down the 44-26 with a Shimano double FD-5500 .
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Just like the title says. Parallel preferred, but will consider the
non-parallel also. If any of you have a spare set you don't need, or have
decided that the one you have isn't right for you, I'm interested. Contact
off-list.
Anton
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I haven't used a bike computer in years, but on Sunday I was leaving to do
the Ohio to Erie trail, so Saturday afternoon found me at Performance
looking at bike computers (and a better rain jacket)
I ended getting some Axiom model, $30 on sale, and it's proven to be junk.
It'll work for a while,
@ted:
I am thinking of getting pitlocks for the wheels, and just using my mini u
lock on the frame to lock onto sign posts.
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my haircutter, her sister backed into her carbon bike then her LBS threw
holy water on it. She got wise about it and submitted it to her insurance
for replacement.
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 1:16:44 PM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
Will this lead to a one less carbon fork button one day? haha
Ted:
Did you use this stem for packing an SS coupled bike? I take it turning the
bars wasn’t enough to get the bike into the case safely, and this stem allowed
you to take the bars off altogether without affecting taping, controls, etc.?
Tom
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
I see the speed jumps while I am cycling if I look at the speed page but
they don't really show up on GarminConnect after I download the ride, not
that I have noticed anyway. The average speed doesn't seem to be affected
either.
Personally, I handle the speed bouncing around because I like
That is such a perfect build. Very appropriate pricing given all the shiny
bits included with it. And orange!
I have the Sachs on my tandem, and like them a lot.
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:35:28 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
Yes, and those Sachs ergo shifters are boss. They're basically
Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks. What that tells us, I
don't know, but I'm sure it's somehow profound.
~pb
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:45:18 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
I can't say the new Fork Wars video necessarily proves a point, but it
certainly makes a
they're tough on tires
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 7:16:46 PM UTC-5, pb wrote:
Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks. What that tells us,
I don't know, but I'm sure it's somehow profound.
~pb
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 10:45:18 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
I
Do you know if he is willing to ship? Unfortunately I'm on the other coast.
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Just wait for season five of Game of Thrones to prove otherwise!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 5:16 PM, 'pb' via RBW Owners Bunch
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:
Coincidentally, swords also make poor bicycle forks.
the valryian sword of crabon, forged before the doom, breakable only by
steel, and rocks, and unseen jarring motions.
On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 9:55 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:
Just wait for season five of Game of Thrones to prove otherwise!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a
Let's keep it to one imaginary fantasy land, shall we.
THE FORK WAS FORGED IN THE FIRES OF MOUNT DM
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 6:57:22 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
the valryian sword of crabon, forged before the doom, breakable only by
steel, and rocks, and unseen jarring motions.
On
I carry 2 locks with me.
One can go through the rear triangle around the rim onto the rack.
The other will lock the front wheel to the frame.
That should keep it secure. Or I run the rear one around the rim, over a
seat or chain stay and then to the rack. More secure, but unneeded.
-J
On
Anyone told Neal Stephenson about this?
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This is generally a conservative bunch, at least mechanically speaking. So
you understand my desire to keep my 6-year-old low-normal shimano rear
derailleur going after 20,000 odd miles (Shimano quit making them shortly
after Riv started promoting them, so can't get new). The jockey wheels are
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