To reduce "knee jam on sharp turn" issues with bar-end shifters I always
trim off a shifter body's worth of handle bar end. For me that helps a lot
in keeping from getting poked by the shift lever. I've seen it written that
some bars narrow enough away from the tip that a bar-end shift will no
That's good advice. The biggest problem with bar-ends (on drops) is just
getting used to where they are and learning to not jam your knees into them on
sharp turns. It's such a strong muscle memory for me now that I still do it on
my brifter bike!
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Mark's suggestion:
If your friend is set on STI, then he should go with a complete Shimano
> drivetrain. My experience with Shimano STI and the Sugino crank left much
> to be desired. It just didn't shift as sure and smooth as a full Shimano
> package. All other parts will work fine.
Aeropref mentions front derailleur FD-3030 which is the same series as
their shifters and is compatible. The Sora shifters you are writing about
are compatible with your rear derailleur but not with your front derailleur
(cable actuation ratio was changed).
On Tuesday, April 16, 2019 at
Thanks Aeropref, that’s just what I needed to know. Could you tell me which
front derailleur you’re using with that setup?
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Friction fd shifter on the down tube. I used that with campy ergo for a while
and liked it fine. I think I read Mark A. uses a dt front shifter for cross so
the bar end doesn’t get in his face during run ups with the bike shouldered.
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I'm running the Sugino 26/36/46 crank with a Sora FD3030 front derailleur
on my Sam. The Shimano R3030 and R3000 brifters work fine.
I think you'd miss that lower gear if you went to a double.
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There's another way you can go that would solve all the issues: Microshift
Advent 1x for drops. It's relatively cheap, but you'll need the whole kit: Wide
range 9-speed cassette, right brifter and matching left lever, rear derailleur
(use current chain). Then you ditch the big and granny rings
I like that idea Jonathan, but my friend says his knees hit the bar ends when
they’re in the extended back position (low gear for the front/left, high bear
on the rear/right).
As I write that it occurs to me that perhaps wider bars are a cheaper and
possibly better solution. But the friend is
Another option would be asymmetric shifting. Brifter for the rear, bar end
for the front. He'd have indexed for the cassette, which is where most of
the shifting happens anyway, and you'd get the trimming and compatibility
of friction up front.
On Tuesday, April 16, 2019 at 8:48:38 AM UTC-5,
As I said, you might get lucky. Matching 105 brifters to the 105 fd means the
shifter-to-derailer action will be correct, so that's a start.
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Wow, it's wild how they sorted out getting "Shirmego" to work!
I'm frustrated that it seems a standard Shimano triple shifter probably
won't work with the Sugino XD2 crankset. So the options are:
(1) get a shimano crankset without the great low range of a the Sugino XD2
(2) Shirmego that allows
You need to use the alternate cable routing, clamping the cable on the
opposite side of the pinch bolt to do Campy 10 to Shimano 9
Here's a nicely written guide that helped me when I set mine up
https://www.cxmagazine.com/shimano-campagnolo-ergopower-compatibility
On Monday, April 15, 2019 at
Don't you need Campagnolo 11 Ergo to index right with Shimano 9?
On 4/15/19 7:27 PM, Kurt Manley wrote:
I'd recommend Campy 10 speed shifters set up "Shirmego" style. They
will work good with noodles since they are shorter and the front
shifter has very good trim adjustment which is needed
I'd recommend Campy 10 speed shifters set up "Shirmego" style. They will
work good with noodles since they are shorter and the front shifter has
very good trim adjustment which is needed when you're trying to run
chainrings that don't match what Shimano designed into their triple setup.
I've
The chink in this plan is the cranks. The bike wasn't built to run brifters,
and it'll be sheer dumb luck if the front shifting works. You're starting with
a 105 derailer which will match Shimano brifters so that's a plus, but it's
designed for a specific set of Shimano rings. Good luck! 爛
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Interesting and good thought - I'll check with him for at least a photo of
the bike he used before. It was ridden on a 3 day tour but before that he
hadn't been riding at all (and didn't own a bike for many years) but he
enjoyed it enough to want a touring sort of steel bike with drop bars ...
Were the bars on his last bike that long of a reach (those look like
Noodles or similar). In my experience, brifters work much better/are much
more comfortable with shorter reach modern bars. The Soma HWY One (and VO
clone of it) is one of the only games in town for that in 26.0 and silver.
Yeah either will work. I've got a set of used 9speed 105 black shifters if
you prefer. I'll sell them for $75 shipped
On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 1:42:39 PM UTC-4, Pancake wrote:
>
> My initial best guess for dual control shifter/brakes are:
>
> (a) Shimano R3030 and R3000 brifters ($132 for
My initial best guess for dual control shifter/brakes are:
(a) Shimano R3030 and R3000 brifters ($132 for the set)
https://www.bikesale.com/shimanosorar30303x9-speedbrakeshiftleverset.aspx
(b) Micronew (Microshift?) R9 controla ($72 for the set):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK73PHH
Would these
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