This is an excellent thing to add to a pre-ride quick check, or a
diagnostic tool when someone on a ride complains about clanking noises,
vibrations or weird handling. It's surprising how often I find it,
especially on bikes with threadless headsets (where the whole point is
you can adjust it
I usually just hold the front brake closed and, while astride the bike, try to
roll it forward and back. If you wrap your fingers around the bottom of the top
part of the headset, you’ll pretty easily feel movement if the headset is too
loose.
--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
@CampyOnlyguy (Tw
On Step 4, to check for excessive play I like to brace the front wheel
against something solid - like a wall or a heavy workshop bench - hold onto
the handlebar then push forward on the frame or seat. The steerer shouldn't
move relative to the head tube at all when you do that.
Thumbs up on the
I agree with the various replies here. Another good thing to do besides
having the two wrenches is to support the bike on the ground somehow,
either using something like a Feedback Sports Rakk Bicycle Storage Stand or
having someone hold it up via the saddle or rear wheel, and then sandwich
th
Lum,
Headset adjustment is one of the few jobs I go to my LBS for. I'm just not
skilled enough to get it right. The other stumper for me is wheel
building/truing.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Friday, October 13, 2017 at 1:38:58 PM UTC-6, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> This is a needle bearing IRD Rollerd
It absolutely should be done with two wrenches. When you loosen the
locknut at step 1 and when you tighten the locknut at step 3, you are
holding the upper headset race fixed with a proper 32mm headset wrench.
You can use a huge crescent wrench for the locknut, but it is preferable to
have at
