Jay
The most accurate SH would be using a gonimeter to measure your leg angle
and adjust SH to get the optimum leg angle (I forgot the value). The bike
is bike is on a trainer and the front wheel is leveled. The gonimeter
measures the leg angle at the bottom of the pedal stroke.
Typically
Laing, I've puzzled about how to take crank length into account and this
seems like a great idea. I'll give it a try. But at the end of the day,
anything that is a fairly reproducible number for an individual gets the
job done. I have a seamstress tape with a little rivet on the end that
grabs
Laing - I agree with you about the crank length. But then, I'm old and
have dealt with the issues of frame size v. saddle height v. crank length
so many times over the years that I can't recall them all. Nevertheless, I
seem to have dialed into some kind of combination of these that I have
I have never understood why any body is concerned "saddle height" which as
I understand it is the distance from the CL of the crank to the top of the
saddle, inline with the seat tube. It is very hard to measure from the
center of the crank and what if you have bikes with different crank
Like others have intimated, it sounds as if you’ve been running your saddle
much lower than recommended. I would suggest measuring your PBH one more
time with an assistant to be absolutely sure it’s correct, then adjust your
saddle to PBH minus 10-10.5 cm.
Alternatively, you could use the
IME, there's no objective way to get the "right" saddle height, but the Riv
method gets me in the ballpark. I do change my saddle height +/- a cm or
so, even on the same bike, depending on the kind of riding I'm doing
(single track vs path/road/gravel) and how flexible I'm feeling at any
given
