I prefer Cantis yes they are more fiddly, but I think that is sort of what I
like about them!
The good thing about V brakes is the lack of a cable housing stop, just run the
housing all the way to the brake! This also makes rack & fender mounting
easier.
Is adjustment easier? Hmmm . . . I feel
Got it.
Many thanks,
Kevin
On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 6:14:54 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Basically, that the retarding force of the pads is in linear relationship
> with the force applied to the lever, or to the travel of the levers. With V
> brakes and mechanical discs, more than cant
Basically, that the retarding force of the pads is in linear relationship
with the force applied to the lever, or to the travel of the levers. With V
brakes and mechanical discs, more than cantis in my experience, the
relationship is less linear -- you pull the lever and get a certain
retarding for
What exactly is "modulation" when applied to brakes? I've seen the word
used - and have used it myself, truth be told - but never really seen a
good definition.
Thanks,
Kevin Lindsey
Alexandria, VA
On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 6:30:27 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> To add precision: why we
There are Promax BMX Vbrakes out there that would probably allow for
you to go to a smaller wheel, they have a pretty wide adjustment
range. That said they are ugly and IMO would look out of place on a
Rivendell.
http://365cycles.com/promax-p-1-linear-pull-brakes-108mm-reach-red.html?fee=1&fep=37
The 650b thing was just a weird thought. im happy with 700c on this bike.
i think you can find mtn long pull/v levers way easier than drop v levers.
in my search last night, i only found a few drop v's.
in terms of beauty, i get it. v's are ugly, and cantilevers are oddly
beautiful. the only o
I switched from CX70 to motolites 1. out of curiosity and 2. i wanted
something that was easier to release for wheel removal (The cx70's were
tight and hard to release i found).
I like them mostly, though I can't comment on loaded steep descents too
much.
However - I do have a question on leve
I would like to chime in on this thread to answer one point in the OP that
none of the numerous responses have addressed. The OP commented:
"Paul motolite, with the vertical pad adjustment seems interesting, if it
could facilitate a 700c to 650b conversion. Is that even possible (lower bb
issu
I seem to have exactly the opposite results, I find cantilever brakes easy
to adjust, it could be because I spent many years adjusting center-pulls. I
have Tektro cantilevers on my Clementine and Bombadil - love them, best
brakes I've ever had. Never managed to get V-brakes to work just right o
>
> Oh boy, Oh boy Something I have a strong opinion about where I can
> spread my ideas to control all of bike~brake thinking.. Bwahaha... I was
> involved in Mt. Bike racing at the professional level back in the early
> nineties, have been YETI's race team mechanic, managed a shop and
I sure wouldn't use Canti's again if I could possibly avoid it. V's work
better, (or more accurately, are easier to make work well consistently) are
easier to set up and require less hardware. Just remember to match them to
levers with the appropriate cable pull ratio.
--
You received this
To add precision: why were the IRDs better than any Vs or discs or calipers
I've used? Because with equal power, they had better modulation --
wonderful modulation. Not a huge advantage, but distinctly there.
On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:25 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
> Once again, the best brakes I'v
The levers may be few, but they are readily available; V brakes were the
default for cyclocross until discs became popular.
One disadvantage that V brakes have, that no one has mentioned, is that the
pads have to be set close to the rim to be effective; This is more of an
academic problem than a r
Once again, the best brakes I've ever used -- and I've used most types --
were IRD cantis with salmon pads set up by Rivendell staff and pulled,
IIRC, by Tektro levers. So there is no inherent defect to cantis. How to
get cantis to the sublime point of perfect function is a different
question; so i
I have v-brakes on my Sam.
I always found cantis too fiddly for me.
One disadvantage is that only a few v-brake levers work with road bars.
That's 1 reason I like Albas.
On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 9:39:21 AM UTC+3, drew wrote:
> Great. A non consensus. My wife went away for the weekend to se
Great. A non consensus. My wife went away for the weekend to see Hamilton
It's justifiable to buy new parts in response, right?
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+1 for V brakes. I don't mind setting up cantilevers at all, and I prefer
the way they look to V brakes, but it is ridiculous to say they are even in
the same ballpark re. stopping power IME & IMO. I have wide paul
cantilevers w/ salmon pads on my hunqapillar, and they stop as good as a
cantile
Paul Motolites are worth it on steep hills that make you pick up speed really
quick. Made the switch from Paul cantis and it is two finger braking. Even
Shimano XT v brakes are an improvement IME.
I remember the tektro CR720s we're decent on my velo orange a few years ago.
Recently put them in
True, hydraulics are different -- more powerful. When I tried my next door
neighbor's mtb with hydraulics, even a very light pull with a couple of
fingers almost sent me over the bar.
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 3:33 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:
> I might agree with you about mechanical disks, but not so
I might agree with you about mechanical disks, but not so much hydraulic. I
have them on my fast, heavy ebike, and they are significantly better at slowing
that contraption down than my first iteration of this type of bike with
v-brakes.
But getting back to the OP's question, CX70s on my Appal
+1 on Salmon pads. Essential.
Experiment when where you carry your load. You have a front loaded Hunqa. I
much prefer a rear-loaded Hunqa. And yes, you likely have plenty of
stopping power, but aren't used to pulling the brakes harder. (always use
your front brake more than your rear,). You are
Drew: to follow up on my immediately earlier post, a properly working pair
of brakes of any sort will find an additional 30 lb of very little
consequence to their stopping power.
I forgot to add: since cantis require housing stops, be sure to use stops
that don't flex unduly. Some of the old stamp
Great advice. I was surprised at how much an extra 30lbs really changed how
much speed control I had. I've taken the same bike, and another bike with side
pulls on equally steep trails and felt just fine. I imagine much of this
sensation had to do as much with maneuvering the weight as it did wi
Drew,
I presume your recent S24O experience was your first (or at least one of
your first) with steep loaded riding?
So long as your cantis are properly adjusted, they should be all you need,
but there is learning and skill involved in knowing how to use them when
loaded and even more so when
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