FWIW, I have been advised in the past that, for standard (alloy, steel) frames
and seat posts, you should never have to resort to anti-slip grease.
A slipping post is a sign that something is mechanically wrong. In one case,
the seat collar on one of my bikes had a small protrusion that was
On Friday, 27 January 2023 at 12:57:25 pm UTC+11 Paul M wrote:
My recent Susie calls for a 26.8 seatpost but with the stock Kalloy
seatpost there is a fair amount of play. I had a 27.0 Kalloy seatpost that
fit snug and solved the problem. I'm not sure a Nitto 26.8 seatpost would
have solved the
This is fascinating. During a saddle swap I took a S83 post off my Clem & put a Kalloy in its place. No slip wig either. Then I got my Gus. Wanted to put the S83 on it. Absolutely could not get it to go in the Gus seat tube. Kalloy slid right in. Both are 26.8. Now I am suspicious the Kalloy might
My recent Susie calls for a 26.8 seatpost but with the stock Kalloy
seatpost there is a fair amount of play. I had a 27.0 Kalloy seatpost that
fit snug and solved the problem. I'm not sure a Nitto 26.8 seatpost would
have solved the problem for this frame.
On Thursday, 26 January 2023 at
I had awful seat post slip on my Romanceur when I first built it up. I
finally resorted to $30 carbon friction paste and haven had a slip since.
Also had the same slipping on my old All rounder a shop out of town I was
visiting showed me the friction paste fix. Both seat posts were Nitto S65
The brand matters if I keep finding that one a little undersized and was
able to solve the problem with a Nitto. Which is what I did, which is why I
mentioned it.
On Thursday, January 26, 2023 at 2:25:49 PM UTC-8 Garth wrote:
> I'll second the greasing the bolt head and threads. I had a
I'll second the greasing the bolt head and threads. I had a recent
experience with a Unior Truing stand whose uprights were out not parallel.
They were adjusted using 2 bolted collars, not unlike Park stands. Neither
had a lick of grease in the threads, and one wasn't even set. Loosening
them,
I had this on my Atlantis, took it to my LBS (Cycleast) who used a cordless
drill with a flex cylinder hone brush attachment for about 60 sec and never
had another issue.
mike
On Thursday, January 26, 2023 at 3:11:21 PM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:
> I'd go ahead with the Super Grip and crank
I'd go ahead with the Super Grip and crank down on the bolt a little more.
The worse that happens is you snap the bolt and need a new one but that's
not likely. If this doesn't work then you just got unlucky with the
diameter on the post, I've run into this on a couple frames with it.
On
You need to lubricate the binder bolt because:
1. It can gall if not lubricated, especially if the bolt and nut are
stainless steel.
2. The lubricant allows more of the force that you apply to go into
tightening the bolt and clamping the post and less to overcoming friction.
If all else fails,
I did swap my stem out for a Nitto, but did not have issues with slippage
for the few miles of shake-down use on my new Sam. It also held the bike
for it's build, but that is no real test. I left the binding bolt stone
dry as it is a nylock. This is not an area where I wanted to over-torque
Those posts are a pain in the arse. That bike needs a Nitto!
On Thursday, January 26, 2023 at 12:45:49 PM UTC-8 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
> Not a fan of those stock seatposts, but the Super Grip is worth a try. The
> folks at Crust once recommended Fiber Grip to me when I was having a
> similar
Not a fan of those stock seatposts, but the Super Grip is worth a try. The
folks at Crust once recommended Fiber Grip to me when I was having a
similar issue.
-Brian
On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 3:14 PM Drew Henson wrote:
> Anyone have any issues with the stock seat post (the one included with the
Is there grease on the binder bolt threads. Is the head of the bolt greased
where it contacts the frame? If either answer is no, you just may not have
the binder bolt tight enough.
On Thu, Jan 26, 2023 at 3:14 PM Drew Henson wrote:
> Anyone have any issues with the stock seat post (the one
I once had a Steelwoold Tweed with a slightly oversized seat tube, and
binder bolt wouldn't get tight enough to prevent vertical slipping. A thin
paper shim solved the problem.
On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 at 12:11:39 PM UTC-4, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> It's a nyloc nut--you're just seeing the
It's a nyloc nut--you're just seeing the round end that holds the nylon
gasket:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut#/media/File:Nylon_Lock_Nut.png
On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 at 8:24:02 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Looks like the nut is round, not six-sided like supposed to have in
I use a brake cylinder hone when I get a new frame to clean out the inside
of the seat tube. Rivs are much better than 70's French frames, but it
still doesn't hurt. Also prevents the frame from scratching up the seatpost.
Laing
Cocoa FL
>
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Looks like the nut is round, not six-sided like supposed to have in there. It
may be spinning as you tighten. Get six-sided nut then it wont slip as you
tighten.
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Backing up what Eric said, I've had this issue on a couple MIT Rivs, including
a Clem. The frames that come from Taiwan with a post installed could all
benefit from an inspection and quick once-around with a round file.
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Carl:
I had a similar problem once. Take the post out and feel around the inside of
the seat lug. You’ll be looking for a ridge or imperfection … and it looks like
you may have one on the left side toward the rear, based on the scratches on
the post. If you find anything like that, carefully
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