Would the motor or nut need a pivot? I can picture the meshing angle changing
as the gun angle changes.
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Newfie amphibious tank ;)
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I have a place near me that sells those too. I was thinking sort of the same.
My working in slow progress tank is an AMX13 so it would have to move the top
of the articulated turret.
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Was staring at my road wheel thinking of the track parts i will need to make.
Going to use the TTS system with the treadmill belt. The tank has a single road
wheel so will require 2 teeth per "link". If these teeth don't need to be to
big has anyone thought about starting with a thicker board
Hi Mitch, what are you using for tracks, looks like a continuous rubber belt.
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I am still in the build process but i once asked if a 2 man crew for a tank
with 2 guns was ok. I was told yes. If ww2 time is ok, maybe a Grant or mk1
churchill might be a cool 2 man tank.
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Thanks for the reply, three screws might help. I also wonder if too much force
in one area from the drive sprocket might be an issue too. Maybe have a bit of
drive sprocket on each side of the tread along with the centre.
Stewart
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Saw this old thread, Canada used old bofors up into the 90s, on and off ship.
HMCS Protecteur, the supply ship deployed to the Gulf in August 1990, received
two such weapons, originally from the aircraft carrier HMCS Bonaventure which
had been decommissioned some 20 years earlier.
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Jean, i was looking at your tank photos. On your photo of track sections, the
newer beefer ones i was wondering the width and the distance between the teeth.
Also how did they hold up in battle?
Stewart
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Cool, was thinking of a churchill as a project for 2 operators (myself and my
daughter). Will put it as project 2 after my AMX13. Built part of the churchill
suspension for fun after the hull ect for the AMX13.
Stewart
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So you are saying that both can fire but must be on own trigger button?
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How would tanks with to guns, such as a grant or a mk1 churchill fit within the
rules as a tank is defined as having one gun.
Stewart
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Sounds good Doug, drop me an email at guiltyki...@hotmail.com and will see if i
can fit them in my budget.
Stewart
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Would this be an appropriate motor?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/24-Volt-350-Watt-Motor-Gear-Reduction-Razor-Dirt-Quad-Scooter-24V-350W-U-ST11-/151952094210?nav=SEARCH
Thanks
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Just read this thread, sounds like a pretty cool idea. Might try it. Any photos
of your sprocket?
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Very impressive Steve. Now if if i could mount one on my car for my commute.
Sure would make sitting in traffic more fun. :)
Maybe a car washer fluid pump powered squirt gun. That way i dont need to go
back and pick the darts up.
Stewart
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There are a few spring loaded magazines on the market. The Q-loader is cool but
to big. There is also this
https://www.badlandspaintball.com/mobile/tacamo-20-round-paintball-magazine.html
I have a zues pistol that uses a magazine that is spring loaded. Its a simple
tube with spring. Thinking of
Doug, these are basicly the same motors that Mike used and burnt out. Steve
suggested venting them. These motors are air tight, not a hole in sight.
Stewart
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Sorry mike, my mistake. My starter motors are exactly the same (looking at
them) as the ones Steve found. As for set up, i would too make use of the
sprocket to run chain to another larger sprocket to reduce rpms at the drives
and improve torque.
Stewart
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On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this
afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the
magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along
the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes
Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual
motors.
Thx.
Stewart
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Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will
investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be
directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain
sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little.
Been kicking (or moving) this project around the work shed for a long
while. No actual progress beyond figuring out the curved hull front, until
now. In the past week I have managed to get the suspension swing arm design
to where I am happy with it and get 10 of them welded. I have also bought
Hi Steve
I must be blind but where do i find the file to download you design?
Thanks
Stewart
On Thursday, December 11, 2008 at 6:05:15 PM UTC-5, TyngTech wrote:
I've uploaded the design of my Cromwell's drive sprocket. Check out
TTS Sprocket.pdf in the files section.
Steve Tyng
On
Motors are on their way. Decided to go with something else instead of right
angled drills. Looking through all the ttanks last night i noticed the S tank
T081. It runs on 12v small ATV starter motors. Priced at about $20 bucks each
on ebay ($24 for us Canucks) and free shipping to a mail box
Here is a very interesting page i came across today. Love the 1939 track
motorcycle. The German camo smart car/tank would sure beat winter tires.
http://pedal-dozer.com/
Stewart
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Saw that actually after i shared the link.
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Welcome fellow Canadian.
Stewart
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Joshua,
Modern MBT seem to have a sigle horn with split road wheels for better weight
coverage over the tracks compared to older tanks. My current plan is a light
tank which uses track with two horns. Also small lighter tracked vehicles seem
to still use a single road wheel and double horn
Just want to mention some tracks have the horn (teeth) in pairs or a single
horn in the centre. The dual horns have the tank road wheel roll between them.
The single centred one go through the centre of a double road wheel (think oreo
cookie on its side). Many modern armour vehicles use this
Joshua, go to the groups home page and there is a section of How To articles.
You will find a section on tracks. You will find TTS there. The guide horns
are teeth on a tank track system the fit eather between or inside the road
wheels. The keep the tank from turn itself off the track
Great example of guide teeth here
http://m.123rf.com/photo-21860408_photograph-of-decommissioned-wwii-us-army-tank-stuart-m3a1-caterpillar-drive-mechanism--detail.html
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Wow, great work.
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You
Doug looks awesome. The tacks look great.
Once i get my suspenion together (finally figured out) i will seriously start
racking my brain for track. The goal tank is a AMX13 .
Stewart
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Thanks guys for all the help. Starting to get the courage to tackle this.
Stewart
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Thanks Steve.
So if i get the interal layout correct, really simple discription,
Each drive sprocket is driven by a motor, each motor has its own speed
control? The forward and reverse set up is done a double pull double throw
switch some where between the speed control and motor (or
Dirk, your tank on the site is T 085 correct? It looks like you are somehow
using 110v grinders. I see cords. Are you somehow using battery with an
inverter in there? I know my little 11pv bathroom type fan in my greenhouse run
off a battery with inverter dies fast. I cant see that overly
I have a feeling this will not work, but i wonder is the guts of a Ryobi 18volt
model P420 would somehow work. Price is stupid cheap ($50) and that why i
figure will not work ;). Looking at the gaurd mount and it has great
possibilites for helping to mount.
Was also thinking what Steve was
I have decided to get working again on my tank. It is a crampt hull so was
thinking along the lines on the DeWalt right angled drills mentioned throughout
the posts, 960s or something along that lines. Naturally those are
discontinued.
Thanks
Stewart
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Thanks.
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You received this
Or is it just simply proportional ?
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So would something then like a harbour freight (for example as its on sale)
router control possibly work? Strip it apart and use the guts. But since its
meant for for 120 volt would it even work with the lower voltages you guys use?
Stewart
Working with limited budget
and scottish genetics.
This may sound like a dumb question, and probably is, but has anyone tried
one of these or similar.
http://www.sailorsams.com/12-volt-Dimmer-9-20vdc--The-PowerHouse-12-volt-42-Amp-500-watt-PWM-Dimmer-with-rotary-dial_p_3205.html
I am not a electrician (short of house wiring) so I am looking for
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