I still have to test them, but with the right alloys thay should hold
up well especially with a full suspension system. Once I get it moving
I plan on running a lot of tests including some small jumps.
--
You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email t
Will cast alloy swing arms be strong enough? My (limited) experience
of alluminium castings is that they are light but not very strong.
On Apr 7, 1:59 am, Forlorn Foundry wrote:
> I think I've worked out my steering. I have an old Vantec RDFR23 dual
> speed control that will be running two dewalt
I think I've worked out my steering. I have an old Vantec RDFR23 dual
speed control that will be running two dewalt Drill motors. A Y-
harness connect the steering servo for the front wheels too the
steering side of the Vantec. Thanks for the help with that guys, I'll
keep you updated.
I cast some
OH NICE! (the castings that is)
Chris,
_Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)
--
You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@
I think i'v worked out my steering. I have an old Vantec RDFR23 Dual
speed control that will be running two dewalt Drill motors. A Y
harness connect the steering servo for the front wheels two the
steering side of the Vantec. Thanks for the help with that guys, ill
keep you updated.
I cast some
Sure, I have someI got mine at Radio Shack.
Derek
T065
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 8:13 PM, Forlorn Foundry wrote:
> Thanks for the heads up.
> I'll only be building the same type of clutch not the whole gearbox.
> The motor I'm using has a gearbox. One thing I'm having problems with
> is that
Thanks for the heads up.
I'll only be building the same type of clutch not the whole gearbox.
The motor I'm using has a gearbox. One thing I'm having problems with
is that on the plans it says to make the clutch shoes from PCB Epoxy/
sheet 1.6 which I have searched for and can seem to find, anyone
Just to let you know, Cerjak's transmission is expensive to build. It has
been discussed
here on more than a few occasions. When I priced out the non-fabricated
parts a couple
of years ago, cost of gears, etc. was over $500. Just a heads up.
Derek
T065
On Sun, Mar 28, 2010 at 9:31 AM, Forlorn
Thanks for all the ideas. I'm still trying to decide how I'm going to
do it. I did find this web site http://members.tele2.nl/s_weggeman/CG.htm.
I'm thinking of going with a modified version of that clutch system
and running a Y harness form the steering servo to a clutch servo.
As for the cast a
I'm with Phil on this one but if you want to be authentic then the
easiest way would probably be to use individual track motors like a
tank and a Y harness connecting the steering servo to the mixer /
speed controller for the tracks. Would work best with a mixer that
allows you to set the maximum s
Hi Mr Foundry, good to have you on board. Looks an interesting
project.
Simplest way to do a half-track would be to have ordinary tank
steering on the tracks and spring-loaded steering at the front so the
wheels follow the tracks. That said, the brakes/diff solution is most
authentic but you lose
i'm interested in hearing about the cast aluminum tracks
Chris,
_Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)
--
You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe, send email to
run a second servo in tandem with your steering servo.
then rig it to break the circuit for the inside of your turn. Loosing
power to the inside + steering the front wheels may do the trick.
you can also try using MAG switches (see speed controls section of the
website) because they act as electr
13 matches
Mail list logo