My oil feed hose to the turbo is leaking. It is leaking where the metal tube
joins the rubber hose. The fitting at the turbo is rusted so bad there is no
way I am going to get it off without breaking it off in the turbo. Has anyone
ever cutout the hose section and replaced it with another
Yeap all the time
if your real carefull a cutoff wheel works good
if not a good set of nipex pliers works also
I would suggest using a piece of high temp silicon in it's place
Bruce Bender Jr.
a.k.a. Top Fuel Bender
http://members.cardomain.com/glhs636
'85 Glh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
320hp 370ft/tq
The oil pump to block mounting is probably leaking air. So when the
oil is lower or after the filter change it can't get enough suction
to pull the oil up. (Had this once). Pull the oil pan and remove the
oil pump. Seal it with anerobic sealer where it mounts to the block.
While I was in
Hello.
I seem to have a problem with oil pressure bleeding off when my car sits
overnight, or while Im at work, 89 shadow 2.5 turboas when i start it
up, i get that immediate rattle for all of about 1 second. could it be a
weak check ball assembly behind the oil filter? or is just im
Well I just changed the rear main on my SC. I bought the Fel-Pro one, which
has rubber ridges on the outside of the seal. I have two manuals, the OEM one
and the CHitlons one. The OEM one says use loctite between the seal and the
housing (retaining/green), the chiltons doesn't, neither did
Can I just use the paper gasket instead of the anerobic sealer? I thought that
is what they were for? Also what installation tool do I need, can't I just
press the new on in the reatiner? Thanks
[EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I did just that on my 86 GLH when I was replacing the
The anerobic sealer is for the lip seal itself, where it presses into the
aluminum housing. You can also use it around where the aluminum housing seals
to the block/pan, this is what I did, and is what the FSM said to do, IIRC.
Installation tools? gotta hammer? ;) The hardest part of it, again,
I had a leaky oil galley plug (the one between the engine and transmission) so
I took some measures to fix it and guarantee myself that it won't leak again.
Hypothetical situation: If you pushed the core plug all the way in until it
bottoms out (the hole gets smaller a ways into the block for
Mobil 1 10W30 and a Purolator or Wix Ford Mustang filter. Change every
3000miles.
Check out the oil filter study: http://minimopar.net
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 3:48 PM
To:
I don't run Penzoil but it is an SAE certified oil. It is not going to
make your piston to wall clearance go bad. Nor will running heavier
weight oil solve the problem.
Either the engine was built wrong, overheated or detonation damage.
Richard Paul
I'd be happy to send out to anyone who would like to see the pics of my old
engine from the Spirit. It was run with cheap oil. You can actually look
down the bores and see about .050 of the rings. The sides of the pistons
don't look bad at all, the bores are just worn very oval. Even my machinist
not sure if this will help you but european versions of the daytona shelby z
specifically the 1987 and 1988 models are known as a Chrysler Grand Sport
turbo ll. these particular export cars had an auxiliary oil cooler added to
them
from the factory when built. mebbe the answer is not a high
Oil feeder for intermediate shaft is bad, am told ns1 and none in any dealers
inventories. I have a brand new one for a 525, has smaller hole in center,
would it work? Thanks, Dee Durant, Confused in Wi.
---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING
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