Definitions:
JOY: Owning a Herald
ABSTRACT JOY: Owning a Herald with Spitfire Carbs
PLEASURE: Driving a Herald
PURE PLEASURE: Driving a Herald with Spitfire carbs
ABSOLUTE PLEASURE: Driving a Herald with Spitfire carbs and 007 soundtrack
on CD player, loud
OBSCENE PLEASURE: Driving a Herald w
> I forgot to mention that I dismantled and reassembled the turn
> signal switch. It looked OK. How would I test it - check for
> zero resistance through it?
I am not sure how the later turn signal switch is constructed, but the
earlier one has three wires- one is power, which feeds from the "out
>From: "Scott A. Roberts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>I would look at two different items. First, the turn signal switch. Second,
>the flasher unit itself.
>
I forgot to mention that I dismantled and reassembled the turn
signal switch. It looked OK. How would I test it - check for
zero resistance thro
. But
> instead, I now have no turn signals or hazard warning flashers.
> I traced current with a test light right up to where the wire
> goes into the turn signal switch (I have a 78 Spit with the
> TR7 switches), but no current flows out again. As a matter of
> fact, if I turn on either turn sig
Two thoughts right off the bat: God bless this list and boy
do I hate electrical problems!
My dimly lit alternator light has gone away possibly because
I rewired a corroded connector from the ignition switch. But
instead, I now have no turn signals or hazard warning flashers.
I traced current wit
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Joe, I had a very good pressure regulator on my "3" I bought from Moss U/K,
(not available in the U/S), while driving down to VTR S/E 2 weeks ago it
went out with no warning, just no gas would pass through, so I by-passed the
regulator and drove 500 miles without one, rather rough idle, very bad MP
Fred,
I expect that your problem was caused by the excess pressure forcing raw
fuel into the carb chamber and therefore give the symptoms you mention.
Ordinarily, I would have expected that the float valve would check that
problem but if it did not shut off the flow of the fuel it could be
forcing
Joe Curry wrote:
> Most electric fule pumps need an in-line regulator to keep the pressure
> constant and at a lever that is required by the carb(s). That is
> generally around 2.5 to 3.5 psi. Because most pumps are delivering much
> higher pressure than what is required, the result would normal
Dear Listers:
The BBC is asking us car lovers a question.
What is the best looking car of all time?
Yeah there are some really cool cars out
there, and some really beautiful designs..
I might be a little predjudiced here,
but you can cast your vote at:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/lifestyle/motoring/
Bobby Bloyed wrote:
>
> I have a 1976 triumph spitfire. The mechanical pump failed and the previous
> owner replaced it with a electric fuel pump. My question is will the
> electric fuel pump increase the fuel pressure to the carb and cause the
> mixture to be slightly rich at idle? I have rebu
I have a 1976 triumph spitfire. The mechanical pump failed and the previous
owner replaced it with a electric fuel pump. My question is will the
electric fuel pump increase the fuel pressure to the carb and cause the
mixture to be slightly rich at idle? I have rebuilt the carb and I also
blocked
They look pretty nice to me Ken, but I'm no expert. It cost me almost $400
to have my Spitfire seats redone with foams and cloth covers cut & sewn by
the upholstery shop, so these look like a good deal to me. I might even have
to see about putting one of these styles into my Sprite project when the
Has anyone ever tried a Pape seat ? http://www.pape-ent.com/ They don't
seem too expensive, the one I like, the Pro Bucket, is under $150, and
that's with a vinyl seatcover. Comments ? Pros, cons ...
Ken C
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Here's a few for you Fred.
http://www.paeco.com/gasket.html
http://www.headgasket.com/faq.html#q7
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=2494
http://www.users.bigpond.com/mc251256/gaskets.htm
http://www.alphalink.com.au/~asg/tips/tip14.htm
http://www.teammms.com/Catalog%20Files/GX16
Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote:
> But where did "Sterling Silver" get its name? From the little silver
> coins with the little stars on (see above)."Sterling" silver (the
> silver used for making the sterling/starling coins) was of a particular
> quality/fineness, and was so called to distin
> Actually, one of the nice things about a copper head gasket is that it
> is eminently re-usable. That's one its claims to fame over the standard
> composite gasket. And if you ever find a $40 copper head gasket, let me
> know!
>
> >>> "Fred Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 11/15/02 08:09AM >>>
> ...
Jeff,
Why not drill one new hole to align with the reproduction badge? You'll
have to fill in a hole a touch up the paint but that spot should be covered
up by the reproduction badge.
From: "Jeff McNeal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Badging blues
Thanks for all the suggested alternatives.
Actually, one of the nice things about a copper head gasket is that it
is eminently re-usable. That's one its claims to fame over the standard
composite gasket. And if you ever find a $40 copper head gasket, let me
know!
>>> "Fred Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 11/15/02 08:09AM >>>
...there is no
A new engine with just a little TLC should have a life span of over 100,000
miles with very little worries internally, now I cannot for the life of me see
anyone heating a $40.00 gasket to be reused in a $1,000 rebuild of a engine,
there is no way of ever using a copper head gasket over again, ple
Wth regards to copper in general I agree that it will alter its properties by
using the heating and quenching method...BUT and its a big but
surely after use a gasket becomes compressed and although your method will
allow it to be malleable again it wont compensate for the
compression
Larry,
Funny you should bring up that particular combo- when the original '77
engine threw the #3 rod back in '88 I ended up with a 1500 engine from a '73
Midget. Kept the head from the '77 so it would have the correct air rail
ports and the unleaded valve seats. Just had it surfaced on the advice
Copper head gaskets come up on this group, so I figured I'd reply here
as well as directly to the fella.
Ferrous and non-ferrous metals react inversely to heat tempering.
Rapidly cool a hot piece of steel and you get it hard and brittle.
Rapidly cool a bit of copper and you'll make it very soft
I'm no fan of pinned on trim. Stuff promotes rust by trapping crud and
water, as well as often damaging the paint in the holes (if it was ever
there in the first place).
I'd go with Joe's suggestion. You can find that double sided tape in
all sorts of different thicknesses and on different backi
On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, at around 08:11:10 local time, Joe Curry
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, 13 Nov 2002, at around 15:25:20 local time, Terry Thompson
>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> >Which reminds me, what the hell's a sterling?
>>
>> Sterling i
On Thu, 14 Nov 2002, at around 07:33:50 local time, Javier Vidaurre Ch.
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Hello Michael,
>
>I had to ask ;-) Well now I will never be stumped by
>the currency references in all the UK shows and movies
>I enjoy. I will be able to convert to US$ easily.
>
>All is safely s
Barry Wrote:
- Original Message -
> I am running out of space to put the battery in my 40 Ford truck, and am
> considering under the passenger seat.
I had a motorhome/van conversion that had the second battery (for devices
inside the motorhome) in the rear under a seat. It was enclosed insi
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