Anyone ever had their mechanical tach run too high at higher RPM's? It's
pretty close to correct on the low range of the gauge, but at 3400 RPM, my
needle says 4000!! I knew I had a problem and confirmed it with an electronic
tach. The cable is new, and on top of that I used liquid graphite the
"There's a sucker born everyday"
-W.C. Fields-
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: "Jeff McNeal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 6:01 PM
Subject: Stop! Thief!
> Check out this eBay auction
>
>
http://cgi.eba
Stuart,
Unfortunately, that method is probably the only way to achieve the
firmness that is required in those places. THe deterioration is due to
the glue giving up over the years allowing the particles to separate
(usually depositing themselves on the carpet under the seat in the form
of yellow p
I bought some stuff on ebay recently and thought I got a sweet deal.
'73 Spit under bumper frame covers, 50.00
'72 gas cap, 6.00
'73 NOS Tach Smith # RN1326/00A, 40.00
My '73 covers were smoother than the ebay ones, but the bolt hole tabs were
broken off.
My '77 Gas cap was cracked at the pivot pin
I remember seeing a couple strings about this the past year or so, but don't remember
a successful resolution. Has anyone ever found a source of better replacement seat
foams for the Spitfires (particularly the 1500's) than those of the "pressed/glued
foam remnant" variety sold by Victoria Brit
Jeff McNeal wrote:
>
> Check out this eBay auction
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408328267&category=33667
>
> Incredible...
P.T. Barnum was right!
Joe
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> Check out this eBay auction
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408328267&category=33667
>
> Incredible...
Sale price is $3.00, this guy thinks these are Jag parts. "FT"
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Check out this eBay auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408328267&category=33667
Incredible...
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Yes! btdt. If you lift the ring off now, you'll see that you probably
shaved off a bit of the plastic inside grooves, inside the ring.
Clean them out and it'll probably still go right back on.. now that you've
'clearanced' it :-)
Believe it or not... Whitey, my '75 Spitfire, still has an origin
Hi All,
Just thought I would impart some info that I gleaned from an
engine builder friend of mine. I mentioned to him that I had cleaned the
butterflies on my SU's, he said that I would have some trouble getting the
carbs to idle until the carbon build up was back on the edges of th
> AS a second point, the MG Midgets, used HS2's
> (and of course the jets and bowls angles were different) but they too
> used a cable for the throttle setup.
I used the whole Midget setup on my wife's '73 1500 with the stock 1500
cable. Works great.
Cheers!
Mark
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Interesting thread... I'm on my second Pertronix unit (1149C) as the first one
I purchased was sold with the last car I put it on. I love those things! But
this time around, I really had trouble getting the magnetic ring seated, and
actually had to use an open socket and mallet to press it into p
The only difference (if any really) is slight 'magnetic ring'
outer diameter and where/how the module is positioned
on it's mount plate to se the proper gap of the unit.
Paul Tegler
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.teglerizer.com
- Original Message -
From: "Douglas Braun" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Geor
The engine is definitely NOT intended to be exactly centered on chassis centerline.
If you cannot get the bolts, etc to all line up, I would suspect that your car
has taken a hit once upon a time, and the chassis got bent.
On my car, the crankshaft axis is about 1/2" to the left of the center of t
Good question. I was wondering myself. It is odd, because the distributor models
take the same type of points, but Pertronix lists different models of
the Ignitor for them. It would be nice to know the EXACT differences between
the Ignitor models. If I am ever at a car show where a parts vendor
Bill wrote:> >
> There's not much in it - attaching them to the chassis means you don't
have to worry about getting them vertically past the flanges on the
suspension tower as you lower the engine, but that's not really a big deal.
Whichever way you choose, leave the mountings slack until everythin
I saw the traffic about the D200/D204 distributors this morning. A couple
of days ago, I inquired about the Pertronix Ignitor. Turns out, I have the
Delco D200 (with "7953557" following the D200 number on the side)
distributor. The Pertronix site lists several D200 dists in their catalog,
bu
Nolan Penney wrote:
>
> Joe,
> Do you know if he gains anything from a better advance curve with the
> earlier unit? I couldn't find anything on it when I looked at Pauls
> distributor section on his web page.
>
> Figured you might know since you do a lot with the earlier Spitfires.
I don't be
Probably nothing is wrong with your system. It is normal to have a light drag
on the front brakes. If the front hubs and lug nuts are not too hot to touch after
driving, I would not worry too much.
Having said that, there is one potential situation, which happened to me once:
If the M/C piston i
Joe,
Do you know if he gains anything from a better advance curve with the
earlier unit? I couldn't find anything on it when I looked at Pauls
distributor section on his web page.
Figured you might know since you do a lot with the earlier Spitfires.
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- Original Message -
From: Dave Mayer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Here is my question: Should i fasten the engine mounts to the engine and then drop
> it in? or should i attatch the mounts to the frame first and then drop the engine
> onto the mounts?
There's not much in it - attaching
Hi all,
I've a small problem which seems to be getting slightly worse recently. My brakes are
dragging slightly. I've not checked the rears yet but both front wheels are picking up
slight drag (I can spin the wheels by hand but it stops as soon as I stop spinning
it.) The m/c is slightly down o
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