I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection. With a
microscope if you can get your hands on one. Look for cracked SMT parts. The
high heat from the oven could very well stress the parts causing a failure.
Flux the board up and hit all the connections with a small iron. W
Hi:
I have been looking at the poor quality solder joints on the oscillator.
If you have a steady hand and a small tipped soldering with silver
baring (about 2% silver) solder, I would re-solder the connections. Many
of them do not look properly "wetted" and cold. Some of the heat from
removing the
Strange - email me a pic of the hole you are trying to plug into.
bill.ric...@verizon.net
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2012 6:58 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject:
OK
I get to add 10 cents here.
Yes indeed various foam stuff goes to heck after many years and can indeed
become this strange goo-ie stuff. Or it gets all flakey. Well the good news
is stuff seems to work and that can be frustrating. So I would suggest the
very deep dive and look at all of the sold
There are three connectors in that style, the WECO358, which is
the standard US Bell connector, The Trompeter video connector,
and the mini WECO, aka the WECO438/440A. The trompeter video
and the normal WECO look like they should be compatible, but
they aren't. The Trompeter connector has a narr
I ordered a BCJ-VWP adapter from Markertek.
A week and $18 later it shows up but does not fit my 3586B.
It is too fat to go into the connector on the HP, and the center
pin is way too fat..
On 07/19/2012 04:48 AM, Bill Riches wrote:
Purchase the Canare BCJ-VWP adapter from Martertech or other s
On 26/07/12 20:49, Tom Miller wrote:
Pick up a few sticks of ChipQuik and mix it in with a good iron. Then,
you may do just what you say. It should melt below about 95°C.
A good hot air heat gun would most likely do the trick. Maybe use some
solder wick first to lower the amount of tin/lead sold
Pick up a few sticks of ChipQuik and mix it in with a good iron. Then, you
may do just what you say. It should melt below about 95°C.
A good hot air heat gun would most likely do the trick. Maybe use some
solder wick first to lower the amount of tin/lead solder. Then add the
chipquik.
You migh
On 26/07/12 17:49, Tom Miller wrote:
Hi Bob,
Did you look at his pictures of the oscillator? I think the base will
need to be secured and the top pulled off. This is different from most
of the OCXOs I have seen.
I'm somewhat tempted to try putting the bottom in the vice, heating the
whole sea
"Everything old is new again."
Now that I think about it, maybe the added solder is helping by doing
more than just transfer the heat. As the current, which is at least 100
amps, spreads from the copper to the solder, the solder will heat up
which is exactly what we want.
Ed
On 7/26/2012 9
Hi
Yes, it's a base that goes outside the cover rather than a base that fits
inside the cover. Since the cover is the "big part" it's the only practical
thing to grab onto. The base with the pins coming through it is tough to
pull on without getting yourself into trouble.
Bob
-Original Messa
Hi
Quick summary:
Computing / period counters give you a constant number of digits of
resolution regardless of input frequency. Back when this stuff was developed
a counter that gave you nine digits a second was pretty common.
Typical setup:
1) Take two oscillators and tune them 1 to 10 Hz apa
Hi Bob,
Did you look at his pictures of the oscillator? I think the base will need
to be secured and the top pulled off. This is different from most of the
OCXOs I have seen.
Regards,
Tom
- Original Message -
From: "Bob Camp"
To: "'Discussion of precise time and frequency measure
Hi
Standard approach:
1) Secure the "top" of the part (the cover) in a vise. You need something
between the cover and metal jaws to keep it from wicking the heat. Leather
works, so do plastic inserts. Keep the jaws as far away from the base as
practical.
2) Fire up what ever you have for a majo
Hi ED:
Good point but I guess that it's all resistance heating and copper is
about 10 times more conductive than steel and the contact surface area
is quite small. Anyway, it has worked for me several times in the past.
I did a search at the ARRL website on crystal grinding and found two
articles
Search for DMTD, dual mixer time difference.
On Thu, Jul 26, 2012 at 4:43 PM, Hui Zhang wrote:
> Hello everyone:
>
> I hnow 'heterodyne method' is very useful method of pricision
> frequency measurement (use DBM and LPF), but I only found very few
> infomation when I searched in early docmen
Hello everyone:
I hnow 'heterodyne method' is very useful method of pricision frequency
measurement (use DBM and LPF), but I only found very few infomation when I
searched in early docments, Can someone give me more information about this
'heterodyne method'? The block diagram is best.
Time-nutters--
Aaaarrrghhh! My T-bolt died.
I have the version with the built-in power supply
that requires only a +24 input.
The power supply is putting out +12, -12 and +5.
At least I see these voltages on the upper board
on the pins of the 6-pin connector that supplies
power to the main bo
On Wed, July 25, 2012 10:05 pm, Paul Flinders wrote:
> There is a UK supplier of HCD Research ocxo's and although the HCD-66 is
> clearly obsolete, a current unit - the HCD-660 looks about the right spec
> (http://www.golledge.com/docs/products/ocxos/hcd660.htm). However
> I'm pretty certain that i
My apologies,
I had a brain fault - the unpopulated boards are GBP20 each *not* GBP10.
Postage to UK is an additional GBP5, and GBP12 to the rest of the world.
I will honour the price of GBP10 per board for those that have already ordered.
Sorry,
David Partridge
-Original Message-
Fro
Hi,
Note that the 1804M, also has a 1PPS output. This is coming directly from
the GPS module 1PPS. The Trimble SV6 module I have in my units is only
good to 1us, almost a 1000 times worse than a Tbolt. I am not sure if the
SV6 has a "sawtooth" error message giving a good estimate on how wrong the
I'm not the original poster with the dead oscillator, but I have done
this in the past ( and will again in the future, I'm sure). I'm
definitely going to try this idea. I have both models of soldering gun
as well. The bigger one is Model D550 and is rated at 200/260 watts. I
think that's th
On 25/07/12 23:10, Bob Camp wrote:
Hi
That's just a basic solder sealed package. It should be pretty easy to pop
open. You'll use up a bit of solder wick doing it…
I'm still sort-of hoping someone with experience will offer but I'm
leaning towards having a go at some point.
My natural react
On 25/07/12 23:36, Ed Palmer wrote:
Take another look at flea bay. If you search for < "5 mhz" oscillator
> and weed out the trash there are a few decent looking units.
I had searched for 5MHz ocxo which is why I didn't see the ones you
found. Having said that the result is slightly frustrating
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