Hi,
I have rehabed three houses that I have owned that have cement basements. All 
three were in Colorado.

Bare concrete will weep moisture.  The solution is to paint (actually spread) a 
product made by UGL.  It is $125 for a five gallon bucket.  It is a latex based 
product that seals the surface.

Any exterior concrete wall will suck out heat in the winter and needs to be 
insulated.

In the two housed with full basements I used 2 x 4 studs on 16 inch centers and 
filled the space with IIRC R 13 fiberglass insulation.  That was all that was 
practical at the time but still cold was conducted to the interior in the 
winter.

The third house we had in the mountains outside of Westcliffe, Co and had a 4 
foot stem wall.  About the upper third part of the shorter back wall was open 
to the elements.
I bought 4 x 8 foot panels of 2 inch foam that was covered on one side with 
aluminum foil at Home Depot.  They were about $25 a sheet.
I covered the stem wall on all sides with two layers of insulation as well as 
the rim joists.
Since we were at 9,000 ft moisture was not a problem.
Even though it was well below zero F much of the winter, the electronic 
thermometer probe on the floor which I monitored all winter stayed a 54F.
Now the fact that we had a 450 gallon water cistern in the crawl space probably 
helped to some extent as the crawl space was 30 x 40 ft.
If I was building a temperature controlled room with an exterior concrete wall 
I'd seal it with UGL and put a 4 inch layer of foam to stop exterior heat 
variations. 
When I had a work shop in TN, I stapled aluminium screening material from Home 
Depot to RF proof my exterior walls. If one chooses this method, an electric 
staple gun or better yet, an air driven staple gun makes it a relatively 
reasonable project.
Remember if one goes the old refrigerator route that  some states (CO, CA) for 
example have extremely strict requirements for the old refrigerant to be 
removed and tagged by  licensed  personal (or else...). Just FFT.
Regards,
Perrier



 
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