Paul,
On 13/02/11 04:27, paul swed wrote:
Well pretty good news
The lamp voltage went from 1.83 volts a dead bulb to* 8.9 volts a new bulb*.
By adjusting the oscillator I can get to 9.6 volts but I know the the
oscillator will not start correctly at 82 Mhz its happy at 92 Mhz.
This is good
Magnus it indeed does look very good.
I have re-assembled the various boards and the system locked up as normal
after the warm up period. I do indeed have a failure in the lamp control
startup crkt.
So I pulled the fet gate Q2 to ground through a 1 K ohm resistor setting the
lamp to 24 volts.
Dear Paul,
On 13/02/11 18:50, paul swed wrote:
Magnus it indeed does look very good.
I have re-assembled the various boards and the system locked up as normal
after the warm up period. I do indeed have a failure in the lamp control
startup crkt.
My RS does not have a startup circuit, so I
Startup circuit looks like a bad op amp used as a comparator. U1 section a.
This is a LM 158. I have a LM 148 on hand suspect they are different in
temperature quality. So will look it up and see. This is a common op amp so
if the 148 does not work for some reason any numbers of more modern ones
paul swed wrote:
Startup circuit looks like a bad op amp used as a comparator. U1 section a.
This is a LM 158. I have a LM 148 on hand suspect they are different in
temperature quality. So will look it up and see. This is a common op amp so
if the 148 does not work for some reason any numbers of
Who would have thought a seriously leaky cap c7 on the input of U1a pin 3.
Roughly 10K ohm.
System is running at 1.6 x10^11. See if it hangs in there. Lamp is actually
going higher in voltage at 8.2 V. All in all a good experiment.
Regards
Paul.
On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 1:46 PM, paul swed
Thanks Bruce turned out to be C7 leaky. I actually used a LM358 dip with
wires kind of a ugly bug. Then realzed that really was not the issue. It was
c7.
I do not have any lm158s can or dip. Pretty sure they would be hard to come
by these days also.
Something to look for at hamfests this year.
I do not have any lm158s can or dip. Pretty sure they would be hard to come
by these days also.
Digikey has stock on everything but the ceramic DIP. They do have it in
TO-99/TO-5.
--
These are my opinions, not necessarily my employer's. I hate spam.
At 17:50 -0500 13-02-2011, paul swed wrote:
I do not have any lm158s can or dip. Pretty sure they would be hard to come
by these days also.
Should you need one, they are in stock @ Digi-Key, Newark/Farnell and
several other distributors.
JDB.
[courtesy of http://findchips.com/ ]
--
If you
-boun...@febo.com
Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2011 17:50:18
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurementtime-nuts@febo.com
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] FRSc RB lamp experiment
Thanks Bruce turned out to be C7
Hello to the group
Finally received the heat gun this week and attempted to recover a FRS c Rb
lamp.
In the bad lamp you can actually see a small silver blob and on closer
inspection the center of the bulb front has a small circle of something.
When heated by the normal oven at 177 degrees F the
Dear Paul,
On 12/02/11 21:34, paul swed wrote:
Hello to the group
Finally received the heat gun this week and attempted to recover a FRS c Rb
lamp.
In the bad lamp you can actually see a small silver blob and on closer
inspection the center of the bulb front has a small circle of something.
Well indeed Magnus the black stuff and silver blob were rb.
300 degrees F for 15 minutes made it all go away.
I was using a j thermocouple to measure the temp and right at the bulb.
The trick seems to be for a FRS c to get the blob to the lowest point of the
capsule thats observable. I did this
Dear Paul,
On 13/02/11 00:02, paul swed wrote:
Well indeed Magnus the black stuff and silver blob were rb.
300 degrees F for 15 minutes made it all go away.
I was using a j thermocouple to measure the temp and right at the bulb.
The trick seems to be for a FRS c to get the blob to the lowest
Well pretty good news
The lamp voltage went from 1.83 volts a dead bulb to* 8.9 volts a new bulb*.
By adjusting the oscillator I can get to 9.6 volts but I know the the
oscillator will not start correctly at 82 Mhz its happy at 92 Mhz.
Its not locking but that can be due to several issues.
At
By the way I can disconnect pin 1 on the lamp assembly because I made a 5
jumper assembly so that the area can be easily worked on.
On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 10:27 PM, paul swed paulsw...@gmail.com wrote:
Well pretty good news
The lamp voltage went from 1.83 volts a dead bulb to* 8.9 volts a new
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