this was sent to Iain, and then back to.....scroll down.
From: markflie...@hotmail.com
To: iainsh...@hotmail.com
Subject: instructions
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 11:02:14 -0700
might as well do it now.........here's the tyin' instructions..........don't
loose this, lol.........
always protect your good ($) hooks in the vise with some sort of protection
against the inside of the jaws...........
start thread pretty much anywhere you like...........i almost always do a
complete smooth touching turns covering of the entire hook, (area that will be
convered with materials), before doing anything else.....but that's not
nessessarily nessessary. i will always flatten my thread and make sure my tag
area is very smooth before doing the tag. if it isn't smooth underneath.....the
tag will not look right.
first turn or two of the tag are on bare hook shank.....that gets a bit of a
taper started.........
finish tag. attach tails feathers.......trim butts and smooth over that area so
the entire length of the area where the butt will go is the same height and
level.....prepare, tie in and wrap butt material(s).........
prepare the area for the bead........attach bead and secure........prepare and
attach veilings........attach and wrap mid-body section........pick out MoHair
and strok to the rear..........attach second bead. Affix eye and trim tags ends
in a staggerd fashion so as to maintain a taper to the shank or to at least
keep the shank from becomming to large (fat), at the eye end. build wing,
layering the incrediants.........this is done in the "built wing"
fashion.....material by material. Keep the rear ends of the wing tapered by
staggering the trimming of them.......you don't want things blunt cut or
squared off......
trim and wrap the butts of the winging materials......again, do not make blunt
cuts.......taper the trimming, and keep the wrap overs smooth and even as
possible.....maintaining a uniform height alone the shank as much as possible.
you need an even platform for your collars. a somewhat gentle slope down to the
head area is ok.
at this point on this fly i added a bit of body material in front of the wing,
as i had to much room left over for the collars.....(i could of just did MORE
of a collar and would have but), actually not really.....what it was, was the
fact that my collars might have covered to much of the forward bead if i had
started them that far back.....so i wanted to push everything a bit more
forward, hence the extra body material in front of the wing.....
perpare and afix each Jungle Cock nails in a drooping style........
prepare, afix and wrap each collar seperately, doing both with tight touching
turns one directly in front of the other, both the tuns AND each collar.
finish wraping head, whip finish, detach thread, dye both head and eye, and
apply as many coats of whatever you like so as to get the finish your happy
with, letting each coat fully dry before the next if you have the pataince,
lmao.
primp to your hearts desire.........
i usually dye my eyes right after affixing them...........and i dye the thread
area where the collar(s) will be wraped before wraping so as to be absolutly
sure no white or primrose thread will ever show thru. Main reason old Salmon
fly tyers used white thread as their working thread is because they didn't want
anything to show thru once the fly got wet............and colored threads/silk
were hard, if not impossible to get. Today we do it because it's much easier to
see when your thread is flattening when your doing that.
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