s indicate that there may be other issues you did
not properly account for.
Good luck with getting it straightened out.
BillWB6BNQ
David C. Partridge wrote:
I've added resistors in series with R1008 and R1044 to bring the resistance
for those parts of the A divider to a valu
27;s. The
actual drift rate I do not recall anymore, but it was significantly
higher than the any drift in the Fluke.
BillWB6BNQ
R.Phillips wrote:
-Original Message- From: gilb...@nickgilbert.org
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 4:13 AM
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [volt-nuts]
To amplify Chuck's point,
The only meter worth considering, if you are going to get one, is the
FLUKE 845. Preferably, the battery operated version which has a higher
isolation leakage resistance. However, the 110
volt rack mount model would do just as equally.
BillWB6BNQ
Hi Dallas,
You could load it up to Didier's repository at ko4bb.com. He maintains
a large inventory for Timenuts and related stuff.
Alternately, I would also like to receive you mods as well.
Thank you,
BillWB6BNQ
Dallas Smith wrote:
How do I make my RTF attachment available to
positive and negative tempco's. Not sure what to tell
you in that regard, except the less repair changes the better.
BillWB6BNQ
Hendrik Dietrich wrote:
Hi List,
I partially fixed a "lowly" DV411 Dekavider from the
"Electro-Measurements" epoque and wanted to r
screwdrivers out of it !
BillWB6BNQ
Orin Eman wrote:
Best I can tell, the 3457A 1 year spec is 0.0040% of reading + 19 counts
for 6.5 digits on the 30V scale, 100PLC, cal temp +/- 5 deg C.
Your 10.00036 V reading is therefore +/- 0.00059 V. I'd say you can't
really tell with the 345
Hi Bob,
As I have never heard of imgur, it would be helpful to provide a proper
link to the site.
BillWB6BNQ
Bob Albert wrote:
The pics are in imgur under voltnuts.
Bob
On Sunday, February 23, 2014 1:47 PM, Bob Albert wrote:
Pete,
Oh yes those Harbor Freight jobs have to be
Hi Joe,
How about a picture or two on this item ? ? ?
I have never heard of it. So, maybe Charles is right it was an internal
unit never intended to be sold, but used by Fluke's representatives or
internal cal labs.
BillWB6BNQ
J. L. Trantham wrote:
I posted this on the 6th a
. These standoffs were used, at the time, for providing a high
impedance, low leakage connection point.
We are talking in the 1950 and 1960's time frame. Later in time TEFLON
became the choice for such use.
BillWB6BNQ
Joseph Gray wrote:
Volker,
I came across a couple of old
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-existent. It would be a shame if you got carried away and something
went wrong.
BillWB6BNQ
Joseph Gray wrote:
Of course, before powering up the VS 330, I had to remove the covers and
take a look inside. Everything looked intact and reasonably clean.
You can tell that someone re-painted
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Hi Chris,
ARTEKMANUALS at http://www.artekmedia.com has a very high quality scan
of the 845A/845ab manual with schematics for $10 . He accepts credit
cards and Paypal for a downloadable PDF copy and additionally a small
extra fee for shipping on a CD.
BillWB6BNQ
Christopher Brown
887 with slightly less accuracy.
Bill....WB6BNQ
"David C. Partridge" wrote:
> Hobbyist.
>
> The eBay bidding on the Fluke 335D is already going up ...
>
> I still own the 335A (though how long for is another question).
>
> Both the above are spares/repair as is the Ef
n use as a hobbyist or are you
intending to get into some commercial concern ?
BillWB6BNQ
"David C. Partridge" wrote:
> And also what is the difference between a 335A and a 335D?
>
> Thanks again,
> Dave
> -Original Message-
> From: volt-nuts-boun...@febo.
David,
Take the Fluke any day over the HP.
BillWB6BNQ
"David C. Partridge" wrote:
> Both DC Voltage standards up to 1000V or so, and also null differential
> meters.
>
> Also both being sold by the same vendor as the other stuff
>
> Do the assembled maven
ectly.
If the seller is close to you, perhaps you could take a decent voltage source
(like a Fluke 332 type) and good null meter (like a Fluke 845) with you and
determine the general condition prior to purchase ?
BillWB6BNQ
"David C. Partridge" wrote:
> That makes a
David,
Out of curiosity, what type of information are you looking for ? ?
BillWB6BNQ
WB6BNQ wrote:
> David,
>
> Guildline is still in business. Although their web site has no information
> concerning that model, perhaps if you contact them they would be forthcomi
David,
Guildline is still in business. Although their web site has no information
concerning that model, perhaps if you contact them they would be forthcoming.
http://www.guildline.com/
BillWB6BNQ
"David C. Partridge" wrote:
> Google has failed me! Does anyone know anythin
://conradhoffman.com/stdcell.htm
BillWB6BNQ
ed breya wrote:
> I just junked out a very beat up old Fluke 803 differential
> voltmeter, and found deep within, an old-school Cd/Hg standard cell.
> It was well protected in an aluminum box, and wrapped in foam and
> foil. It looks br
Hi Ed,
I am a little confused with regard to your paragraphs 3 & 4. Could you
elaborate
on those two paragraphs ?
thank you,
BillWB6BNQ
ed breya wrote:
> The simplest way to drop the output impedance without adding much
> circuitry is to just change the series R to 100
) directly to the minus banana jack to make sure the
sense
string is not part of the main current path.
BillWB6BNQ
Bob Smither wrote:
> The 731A is specified to have an output impedance of less than 1.1K in the 10V
> setting. A meter with 10 M input Z therefore causes a .01% (100 ppm) r
responsible for making sure of INPUT / OUTPUT
switches are set to the right scales for the voltages being used.
But let me make the standard disclaimer - - - It has been a long time since I
used my 750A - - - so I could be wrong !
Please let me know if I am all wet.
BillWB6BNQ
Fred Schneider
for the 750A, let me know and I will
forward it to you.
BillWB6BNQ
Christopher Brown wrote:
> On 11/21/12 6:44 PM, WB6BNQ wrote:
> > Hi Chris,
> >
> > Do you mean the Fluke 750A ? It has connections for standard cells. The
> > 752 is a ratio
> > device
up for use with just
a 10 volt
reference using the original banana jacks for the reference and null meter as
normal. All
that is needed is to (non destructively) remove one connection and add one wire.
BillWB6BNQ
Christopher Brown wrote:
> On 11/21/12 5:04 PM, WB6BNQ wrote:
> &
rns' pot, any modern replacement part that may be fitted
is
going to run more than $30. What makes you think the pot is bad ? ? ?
Good luck with the project,
BillWB6BNQ
Christopher Brown wrote:
> Just picked up a 731B that turned out to be in a bit less than ideal shape.
>
>
).
BillWB6BNQ
Christopher Brown wrote:
> On 8/19/12 2:40 AM, WB6BNQ wrote:
> > Chris,
> >
> > Otherwise, if you are just looking for a working voltage standard then go
> > for a
> > 731B and have it calibrated by a responsible credited LAB. You can
> > pos
ly the Fluke 845. The 10 volt output
has
a low output impedance providing the ability to handle some small amount of
loading, such as the nominal 10 Meg Ohm input on good DMM's with very minor
error
due to the loading.
BillWB6BNQ
Christopher Brown wrote:
> As I understand it, the
Hi Rob,
Yes, now I see the point ! My apologies to Mitch for misunderstanding his
point.
BillWB6BNQ
Rob Klein wrote:
> Bill,
>
> I had to read it twice myself, but that was Mitch' point. When you want
> to check the performance
> of the oven, you want to measure
Mitch,
Quite the contrary. The 10 volt output is the master output and therefore the
most stable. The others are derived from dividers and thus add additional error
terms due to the tempco of the divider string and any possible loading presented
to those outputs.
BillWB6BNQ
Mitch Van
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