Mike, it's usuallt either a circular flat clip or a cotter pin,
depending on if it's the original clip or not. Needle nose pliers have
always worked for me in both cases.

If this replacement part is the kind with the threaded adjustable end,
then you have to twist it around. If you make the length exact, then the
exhaust pressure will just push it open. You need some tension on it,
generally acentimeter or so has yielded me 7-10 psi depending on the
individual setup. The neato thing about one of these adjustable arms is
that in essence it sets your minimum boost, and then your boost
controller does the rest based on vac signal delay.

On Gus' old website he has pics of his setup, where he took a stock
wastegate arm and modified it to work the same way. He actually used it
as a boost controller, since there's no fuss, and little if any spike
(because there is no delay). The more tension you put on the canister
(menaing the shorter you make the arm), the longer the wastegate stays
shut and hence the higher your boost goes.

Have fun.

-J   Southern California Forced Induction
1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (choosing body shop for paint)
1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo
1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo
1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale)
1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale)
1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo
1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo
1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Platt
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 9:54 AM
To: Shelby list
Subject: SD> Installing a wastegate can in a GLHS

I am replacing my original worn out wastegate can with new one from FWD
performance. Does anyone have any tricks to getting the arm disconnected
from the turbo? It's a real tight squeeze back there and I had a tough
enough time getting the can unbolted from block. Also, how do I preset
the length of the replacement can? Thanks in advance

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