OK, we got 2.2v on the MAP sensor with key on and engine off (which is good), and with 15" of vacuum from the hand pump, we see 1.0-1.1... 14" gets 1.4v, so we're in the neighborhood and the MAP sensor can apparently be ruled out.
So I just need to know how *exactly* to test the Baro, and what the expected readings *should* be. Because it very well may be that's the culprit. Now, I took off the hsoe to smell for fuel and couldn't, but I know you guys would prolly tell me that doesn't mean the FPR isn't leaking. ;) So help me get through the Baro testing and we'll see. Thanks to all who are helping out. -J Southern California Forced Induction 1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby Turbo II (***throwing a code 13***) 1986 Chrysler Laser XE Turbo 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo 1991 Mitsu Eclispe GSX Turbo(for $ale) 1990 VW Corrado G60 Supercharged (for $ale) 1984 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1985 Nissan 200SX Turbo 1983 Datsun 280ZX Turbo -----Original Message----- I had a cold ambush me on Friday night, so I'll see what I can do tonight after work. We didn't check the voltage at the time because I forgot to print the normal voltage readings and what wire to test that Brian Schulteis posted. The mechanic is going to test voltage on the MAP this morning, including 15" vac voltage, as Brian explained to do. What should the Baro wires each test at, and which one is ground? (I didn't look to see if they were red and black or some oddball striped pair instead). What is the best way to test the baro voltage? Car on? Car off? -----------------------REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING---------------------------- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
