> So I just need to know how *exactly* to test the Baro, and what the > expected readings *should* be. Because it very well may be that's the > culprit. > > Now, I took off the hsoe to smell for fuel and couldn't, but I know you > guys would prolly tell me that doesn't mean the FPR isn't leaking. ;) > > So help me get through the Baro testing and we'll see.
Do you mean how to test the baro-read (or MAP) solenoid? Not sure what you are asking. During engine cranking, the MAP sensor is looking for a drop in voltage of at least .04 volts, if it doesn't see at least that amount of drop, it sets code 13. The engine doesn't even need to start for this to happen. Do you have a vacuum/boost gauge? If so, when you are cranking the engine to start it, do you see a little bit of vacuum on the gauge (you should)? Well, the MAP sensor is looking for it and doesn't see it. That is what the code 13 means. Earlier you said the car ran fine before the engine was pulled. And you said that you removed the main vacuum connector to the manifold and laid the vacuum harness aside when pulling the motor. One of the hard plastic vacuum lines could have cracked. You need to examine all the lines very closely. Another thing you can try to see which line is causing the problem, since you have a hand vacuum pump, is to check the lines to make sure they hold vacuum. Remove the line that goes to the FPR & the baro-solenoid from the 4-way connector, apply vacuum. Does it hold? If it doesn't then check whether it is leaking vacuum at the FPR, or the line to the solenoid. -----------------------REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING---------------------------- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
