Mike
Mullikin, Stefan P wrote:
The car is relatively safe, its not going to blow up on you, but with it pinging the bottom end is taking a heck of a beating and you will shorten the life of the bearings.
Is the oil in the inlet hoses for the throttle body/turbo? Remove the throttle body and look in the turbo inlet, is there oil in there? If so its coming from a bad seal on the turbo (common on early T1's since its under vacuum) Time for a T2 top end conversion, IMHO.
Check that your PCV system is working properly, and that the baffle in the valve cover is sealed properly. Try misting water into the throttle body until the exhaust comes out completely white, or pickup a bottle/can of Mopar combustion chamber cleaner from the dealer.
Is your EGR system working properly? If it isn't is could be dumping too much host exhaust into the engine, causing ping or pre-ignition.
What fuel grade do you use? Turbo cars should be run on 91 or 92 octane, especially in the summer. What does your fuel pressure look like? How old is the fuel filter? The fuel pump? How low do you usually run the fuel level in the tank? You should never run the tank below 1/4 tank and then run the car hard if you can avoid it, this can shorten the life of the fuel pump since it will begin to overheat from a lack of cooling usually provided by the large volume of fuel in the tank. Install a fuel pressure gauge (EFI Rated, available at Sears among other places) Install it such that you can watch it while driving. What does the fuel pressure say compared to the engine vacuum/boost level when it pings? Fuel pressure should stay at 55psi + boost level (65psi at 10psi of boost, this works similarly under vacuum, though engine vacuum is measured in inches of mercury so you'd need to convert it to psi, however 44-46psi is normal at 15 inches of vacuum) If the fuel pressure isn't correct, then check the fuel filter, regulator and fuel pump. If it is correct, then have your injectors checked by a shop to ensure they all flow at least 33 lbs/hr of fuel at 55psi.
How about the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil? All in good shape? What is the timing set at? Was the head shaved before installation? Try gapping the plugs tighter to like .020" if it helps then you've got an ignition problem. Timing spec is 12 degrees, make sure you've got at least that and that its stable when you follow the proper procedure to check/adjust the timing.
Good luck, Stefan Mullikin Portland, OR Co-Founder PNW-SDAC http://www.pnw-sdac.org 1980 Fiat X-1/9 1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2 1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z 1987 Shelby CSX #106 1988 Shelby CSX-T #3
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 3:39 PM To: shelby-dodge@sdml.org Subject: SD> Safe to Drive??
I have a question for all the mopaer experts out there:
'87 daytona Pacifica w/ rebuilt engine, started pinging, thought it was just timing, it wasn't. Had mechanic change valve seals after seeing car, believing that oil leaking into combustion chamber is the cause of the ping.(and blue smoke from exaust)
I have driven car for 100 miles since, and still pinging. car will only ping once hot and under a heavy load.
My question is, whether i am still burning off oil in the combustion chamber or if there is still oil leaking else where causing this minor ping.....IS THE CAR SAFE TO DRIVE MODERATELY or am I risking fire etc?????????????
You can only notice that the car is burning oil if it sits idling for 10 minutes or so and then you take off.
PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR OPINIONS!
KEITH
-----------------------REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING---------------------------- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/
To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
-----------------------REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING---------------------------- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/
To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
