Lemme guess, its stuck in the bearing supported extension on the passenger side 
of the drivetrain?  This is common when someone fails to replace the seal at 
the end of the axle and/or grease the axle before installing it.

You could try removing the entire piece (two 15mm bolts hold the extension to 
the back of the block) and working on it on your workbench.  

Some things to try:

Soaking the joint with a rust breaking solution (PB Blaster works well)

Drill a hole in the end near the transaxle end and squirting some penetrate in 
there as well.

Do this over a number of days.

If you have access to some freeze spray and a torch you could carefully heat 
the entire joint up (try not to damage the bearing or its rubber carrier).  
Then hit the joint with the freeze spray.  The thermal shock (rapid expansion 
and contraction) might break the rust up enough to allow the joints to slip 
apart.  A couple of attempts at this might yield some results.

Others have had to drill and tap the extension housing with a hydraulic 
pressure fitting and fill the inside with hydraulic fluid via a pump to force 
the two pieces apart.  Be sure to include a way to bleed off the air or you'll 
basically make a cannon out of the axle and then you'll be in for quite a shock 
when it shoots across the room.

Another thought I was going to try and hadn't yet was similar to the above only 
it doesn't involve launching anything across the room (so its not as much fun 
and I'll have to blow something else up to feel like the project is complete)  
Basically like the above, you remove the U-joint (its a standard Mopar U-joint 
and should be replaced periodically) bore a hole in the cast iron yoke large 
enough for a 1/2" diameter piece of all-thread to pass through.  Now you can 
either tap the hole in the casting for the all-thread or build a puller that 
hooks onto the yokes that the all thread passes through.  If you're concerned 
about the stability of the all-thread then you could use a more standard puller 
with a piece of cold rolled steel machined to fit the hole with machined areas 
on either end to hold the end of the axle and the puller's through bolt.  From 
there its simply a matter of cranking on the bolt to hopefully push the axle 
out.  When finished you simply plug the hole with!
  a thre
aded plug and install a new U-joint and make sure to grease the axle splines 
before installation with a good synthetic axle grease (Mobil makes an excellent 
product in a grease gun tube)

Good luck,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
PNW-SDAC Founding Member
1979 Porsche 924 (Carrera GTS Replica and GRM $2007 Challenger)
1980 Fiat X-1/9 (never ending 2.2 turbo swap)
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Plymouth Sundance Turbo (Daily Driver)
1987 Shelby CSX #106

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I am replacing the CV axle on my 85 Dodge 600 Turbo. I can not seem to get the
> CV axle separated from the half shaft. From looking at my repair man it looks
> like it should slip out. I have tried a pry bar my hammer, vise ect. but no
> luck. I am afraid that I will damage the half shaft if I am not careful and I
> am not to sure that half shafts are readily available.
> 
> Any thoughts, tricks? heat? air hammer?
> 
> Jeff York
> 1985 Dodge 600 Turbo intercooler
> 2005 Chrysler 300 Hemi
> 1999 Dodge GC Sport
> KR-2 Flying
> N839BG
> Home page  http://web.qx.net/jeffyork40/
> My KR-2       http://web.qx.net/jeffyork40/Airplane/   to see my KR-2
> Email             [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-----------------------REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING----------------------------
Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/

To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html

Reply via email to