This is sort of what I've been saying for lo, these many months. If one diameter/thickness doesn't work, try another.
TFlan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Burgess Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2002 10:19 AM Subject: RE: ShopTalk: TFlan Shim > Brian, > > FWIW, I had the same thing happen with my 6061 head. Drilled it out and > tried twist tie wire. No go. Used 2 strands of 4 lb. mono instead, > crisscrossed over the tip and rammed home to the bottom of the hosel. > > Works fine. Snug as a bug. The 4 lb. is fat enough to get a good fit, but > thin enough to allow me to rotate the shaft after it is inserted. > > Burgess > > At 11:53 AM 7/10/2002, you wrote: > >Tom, > > > >Sorry to bother you again on this, but I went to the resource page on > >clubmaker online and kept getting errors. I have one of those Hireko > >6061's with a broken shaft, and could pull the wee little bit of shaft > >left with the propane torch. Beside as has been discussed on the forum, > >those things are heat sinks. Anyway, I drilled out the old shaft. The > >new shaft seems a little loose, so I was thinking about using your shim > >method with the wire coil. > > > >Now for the stupid part of my question, if I catch the wire between the > >hosel and the shaft, it won't go on. If I don't it just slides up the > >shaft above the hosel. Of course, this probably means the gap isn't big > >enough for the wire, but I just thought I would see how you get the head > >over the shim. > > > >I guess I'll just use your fishing line shim if I can't get it to work. > > > >Thanks, Brian > >-----Original Message----- > >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On > >Behalf Of Tom Flanagan > >Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 10:50 AM > >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Subject: Re: ShopTalk: TFlan Shim > > > >I have a reel filled with what I think is about 18 or 20# monofilament. > >I'm not sure of the size since I've had it for years. As I recall I had a > >spool that contained something like 500 yards of the stuff. However, in > >answer to your question. Just lay the mono along the tip with about 1/4" > >or so sticking below the tip. Tilt the hosel (or the shaft tip) enough to > >just catch the extended mono and tip at the same time. Then twist and push > >the hosel/head onto the shaft part way. When you get near to the final > >insertion depth, snap the mono off at the top of the hosel. Then shove the > >head in place the rest of the way. You snap the line off before seating > >the head so none of it sticks out the top. If you seat the head and then > >cut the mono you'll have a small piece showing, or if you're using a > >ferrule, the mono with interfere with a flush installation. If one piece > >alongside the tip isn't enough you can lay another line opposite the first > >one, doubling the thickness. That also helps center the tip in the hosel. > > > >I also use grocery store twist-ties, which when stripped of the > >paper/plastic coating, are a little larger than the mono I have. You can > >also use copper wire - 22 gauge, 20 gauge, 18 gauge, etc. It works just as > >well. Further, I reshafted a Taylor 320 driver last week with a .335" > >Grafalloy. The Taylor shaft is .350". I made a coil shim using a stripped > >twist tie wrapped around the tip of the Grafalloy. The guy who owns the > >club is a big hitter. I watched him on the range yesterday, hitting the > >crap out of the ball. No problems whatsoever. I didn't expect any since > >I've done this a zillion times but there's always the wondering ;-) > > > >TFlan > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>brian > >To: <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 8:47 AM > >Subject: RE: ShopTalk: TFlan Shim > > > >Hey Tom, > > > >I remember perhaps a year back you describing the fish line shim you use > >to do everything in one fell swoop method, but I am just about to try it, > >and can't find the email describing the process. I'm building a putter > >with a bent shaft and the darn thing keeps turning after I set it so I > >thought your shim would work. > >Thanks, > > > >Brian
