Re: ShopTalk: reaming bc wedges

[Richard Kennedy]

As long as you still have ten fingers then it was a good job, I really do not care if the hosel bores came out ok or not that is strictly between you and your customer.   I know that may sound a small bit "UNNICE" but the way I feel about it is as long as you are not in the hospital getting stitches then what else could be wrong , you can always buy or rework any club head but the finger put back on machine is just a little costly.   RK   KENNEDY        golf equipment manufacturer's of world class golfclub repair equipment -------Original Message-------   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thursday, October 30, 2003 1:46:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: ShopTalk: reaming bc wedges   In a message dated 10/29/2003 2:09:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Subj: Re: ShopTalk: reaming bc wedges Date: 10/29/2003 2:09:58 PM Pacific Standard Time From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent from the Internet When I ream B?C I "ALWAYS" run the drill at around 150 RPM< nothing faster ao you'll end up with a very nice looking desk item as like you said "IT"S GOING TO "WELD" the two items together.    Someone said WD40 which is a very good thing to use to prevent rust but very unusefull if you use it as a cuttilg oil or coolant.    I know that HOME DEPOT has RIDIGE thread cutting oil which is "I THINK" has sulfuer. in it.   RK   KENNEDY        golf equipment manufacturer's of world class golfclub repair equipment -------Original Message-------   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2003 1:27:44 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: ShopTalk: reaming bc wedges   You should take note of this also. http://www.busbymetals.com/docs/mach_page19.htm Al At 11:03 PM 10/27/2003, you wrote: In a message dated 10/27/2003 10:46:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi All, I have a lot of beryllium copper wedges that need to be reamed to . 370 and am having difficulty because of the heat the reamer wants to stick in the head, I have tried using a cutting oil but it doesn't really seem to help and its so thick that it is hard to clean out with acetone afterwards, I would prefer to not use oil at all to save the cleaning step. I tried my . 370 drill bits but found that they were actually . 364 and the shafts are . 368. I also have a lot of steel wedges, but they don't seem to be a problem, I think the beryllium is somehow wanting to meld with the reamer as it heats up. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, David http://www.busbymetals.com/docs/mach_page11.htm   Kennedy                 golf-equipment manufacturer's of world class club repair tooling   Hi RK, Thanks for your response, I tried a smalish .364 head earlier tonight and 1st hit it with a .368 reamer and then finished it with a .3701 bit with no lube with a hand drill and used a Mitchell portable mount for the head, under a controlled rpm and feed rate, sorry but I don't have a press and it seemed to work fine, a hell of a lot better than just trying a .370 reamer and wailing away by hand. David   Kennedy                 golf-equipment manufacturer's of world class club repair tooling