Brad Thank you understood I will try Im sure it will be good if I follw your instructions dutifully. Regards Jeremy.
Brad Smith wrote: > Jeremy, > Sorry, for this late reply, but I haven't been online in a few days. > Here's how I'd proceed: > > Start by adding the hosel weights as I mentioned in my earlier message. > Now all your heads are 7 gm apart as they should be for swingweight > uniformity. I'm assuming that your heads call for tip trimming (but > you haven't said). My general method is to shim the head onto the > shaft, mark the correct length on the butt end, then measure frequency > with the club at that marked length in the freq meter. > > So, to start, I shim the 3 iron on (with the hosel weight in the head) > and measure the frequency at the correct length. Note I didn't tip > trim first. I want to see how it freq's without any trimming first. > (this way, if the shafts are a little stiffer than I'd like, I may not > have any tip trim on the first club. But, assuming it freq's too low, > I trim some off the tip(say 0.5in), re-shim the head, re-mark to the > correct length and re-measure the freq. I keep this up until I reach > the freq I want. If I have to trim too much to get to the target freq, > I'll probably decide to use this shaft for one of the shorter clubs and > hope that all of them aren't this weak. If they are, I may just have > to live with a frequency level in this set that is a little lower than > I would have liked. > > Then I proceed to the 4 iron, probably tip trim the same as the 3 iron, > measure it as described above and then tip it more(as necessary), > measure again, etc till I get to my desired freq for the 4 iron. I > proceed through the set this way. > > If the shafts call for butt trim only, I'd probably still do it the > same way, because in my experience, many of these shafts still need > some tip trimming to stiffen much as you proceed through the set. > > Hope this was clear enough. > Brad > > On Monday, January 26, 2004, at 06:49 AM, Jeremy Ingle wrote: > > > Brad, Thank very much I do have a frequency meter how do I use it to > > get the right trim? presumably I will need to use both tip and but > > trim. > > Regards Jeremy > > Brad Smith wrote: > > > >> Jeremy, > >> You need to do 2 different things here. You need to add weight to > >> most of the heads to get them to a 7 gram differential. But you also > >> need to raise the weight as much as possible, because, as David > >> pointed out, you have light shafts and short clubs and therefore, > >> you'll have very low swingweights. Because you're using graphite, you > >> can't add lead powder to the shafts to get to your target > >> swingweights. > >> > >> Now this part is a slightly different recommendation than David gave > >> you. You should add the HEAVIEST TIP WEIGHT TO YOUR FURTHEST BELOW > >> SPEC HEAD, the 9 iron. Normally tip weights fit into the tip of the > >> graphite shaft and come in 2, 3, 4 and 5 gm weights. But you have > >> Golfsmith heads so you have another option. They have a special > >> weight port in the hosel to accept hosel weights which they sell > >> (look at pg 40 of their 2003 catalog). These come in 2.5, 4, 5, 6, 7 > >> and 9 gm increments. > >> > >> Given how light the shafts are and the shorter length for a woman's > >> set, I'd add the max possible weights. I don't think your swingweight > >> will go higher than D-0. (maybe someone with a swingweight estimating > >> program can verify this). So, in your case, the new weight of 278.5 + > >> 9gm = 287.5 gm for your 9 iron will be your head weight design > >> "standard". Now add lighter weights to the other heads to get them > >> all to be in 7 gm increments between heads. You can trim or grind > >> them them to get to 1/2 gm increments. For example, for your eight > >> iron, target weight is the new 9 iron "standard" of 287.5 - 7gm > >> increment = 280.5. It weighs 273.0. Therefore, add 7.5 gm to it. Same > >> for process for each head. > >> > >> As far as trimming the shafts, without a frequency meter, the best > >> you can do is follow their trimming instructions. I'd put the lowest > >> freq shaft in the longest iron and progress through the set to put > >> the stiffest in the short irons > >> > >> Finally, while you can obviously effect the swingweights by changing > >> club lengths, this is generally a bad idea. Length fit is more > >> important in most cases than the "right" swingweight. > >> > >> Good luck. > >> Brad > >> > >> On Saturday, January 24, 2004, at 01:23 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >> > >>> > >>> Now to review the quality of the heads relative to weight: > >>> 3---237.5 Wt. Spec = 239 g Head Wt. = -1.5 grams > >>> 4---244.0 Wt. Spec = 246 g Head Wt. = -2.0 grams > >>> 5---254.0 Wt. Spec = 253 g Head Wt. = +1.0 grams > >>> 6---259.5 Wt. Spec = 260 g Head Wt. = -0.5 grams > >>> 7---268.5 Wt. Spec = 267 g Head Wt. = +1.5 grams > >>> 8---273.0 Wt. Spec = 274 g Head Wt. = -1.0 grams > >>> 9---278.5 Wt. Spec = 281 g Head Wt. = -2.5 grams > >>> PW-289.5 Wt. Spec = 288 g Head Wt. = +1.5 grams > >> > >> Hi Jeremy, > >> I'll try to help, it's about 1:00 in the morrning so pardon me > >> if I mis spell. > >> 1st of all if you have the Kent sports alpha shafts then you are > >> well on your way home, these are the same as the Vector Tour Class > >> and will come out perfect if you match your head and grip wt's and > >> are exact in your length's > >> Your biggest problem is getting a high enough swing weight using > >> this light of a shaft with this light of a head, what you will need > >> to do is take your 7 iron at 268.5 gr which is your heaviest head > >> relative to spec. and mock it up at playing length on the shaft > >> designated for the 7 iron, if you slip on a split grip it at the top > >> of the butt it should measure 38", which is 1" over mens standard, > >> move it down 2" for ladies standard and secure it in your swingweight > >> scale, this will give you your sw's through out the set providing you > >> add weight to all the other heads to keep them on 7 gram increments > >> off your 7 iron. > >> David > >
