Dave, Will a .doc help as attached.
Dremel - wedges- grooves. How did you do it? Is there any standard/maximim?
Donald On second thoughts. here it is. DTWhatever length is the most comfortable for you, that's your length for the wedges. Wedges are 'scoring clubs' and scoring clubs are all about comfort and feel.
Building Wedges:If you hit your PW with a full swing more often than you hit it with a 3/4 or 1/2 swing, then make it 1/2 inch shorter than your 9- iron and swingweight it the same as the 9.
If you swing full with the PW, then you'll want that same 10-15 yards difference between the 9 and the PW graduate it down from the 9 - iron by 1/2 inch.
If the GW is the 1 st wedge you use to hit more 3/4 and 1/2 swing shots than full shots, make the GW the same length as the PW, and swingweight it +2 points higher than the 9-iron. The reason - 3/4 and 1/2 length swings generate a slower swing speed than a full swing. The higher swingweight will allow you to feel the weight of the head, which is better for your swing rhythm and timing for shots with less than a full swing.
If you mostly make full swings with your GW then make it 1/2 inch shorter than your PW but make it the same swing weight as the PW and the other irons.
For the wedge you use most from the sand should ALWAYS be built with a higher swing weight than any other wedge in the bag. For two reasons 1. The wedge will need the higher headweight to help create a little more momentum so it can get through the sand. 2. Most shots hit with the SW will be swung with far less than a full swing force. The higher headweight lets you "feel" the club head more and helps develop the proper rhythm and timing.
The length of the wedge used predominantly from the sand should be at least 1/2 inch shorter than the 9-iron. This is because for shots usually hit from the sand, golfers will usually grip down on the SW and crouch more in their stance.
If the golfer really likes to "sit down" on the bunker shot you can have the shaft 3/4 to 1 inch shorter than the 9-iron. BUT 1/2 inch shorter than the 9-iron is the general rule for SW length.
The Lob Wedge (LW) is used predominantly from grassy lies. The swingweight should be "in between" that of the PW and SW. However if the LW is your sand club it should have a higher swingweight e.g. if your numbered irons are built to a D1 swingweight, the PW to a D3 and the SW to a D6, the lob wedge that lives more in the grass would best be built or "lead taped" to a D4. This is to allow the golfer more head feel for shot rhythm and timing.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Tutelman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ShopTalk@mail.msen.com>; <ShopTalk@mail.msen.com> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:36 PM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Wedges > At 03:44 PM 2/10/2006, Donald T wrote: >> I've attached an extract from Tom's book 'In Search.....' which >> deals with wedges. > > Donald, > > The file you attached was a .wps file, which needs Microsoft Works in > order to read it. I have nothing on my machine that can read it; I > suspect most ShopTalkers are in the same boat. > > DaveT > >> -- > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.> Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.5/256 - Release Date: 2/10/2006
> > >
Wedges.doc
Description: MS-Word document
