Your melted ferrule trick might be the ticket. I've done it this way: pour mixed two part black epoxy into the hole, put masking tape over it, and stand the club upright. Peeled the tape off after the epoxy is dry and you're golden. At a certain point it's really easier just to use the shaft plugs and 3M-it like you're supposed to but it's a major undertaking just to find/pull the motor/3m wheel, tape the head so I don't trash the bottom... The little plastic plug I had was perfect.
John
Hey John;

I just reshafted a Callaway PW with a steel shaft for a guy. I was sure I had a plug - wrong! So . . . I did this: I used a cut-off wood shaft graphite tip, which fit into the shaft tip. I filled the "plug" hole with a plastic pin, cut the assembly off near to flush and finished it with the home-made "3M" wheel that I made by "sewing" two, 6-inch paint remover wheels together. I think I described that process a few years ago.

Or . . . I've plugged bore-through's by heating large ferrules to near-melt stage, forcing them into the epoxied hole, letting it cool and finish normally. I heat the ferrule with either a torch or heat gun. I place the ferrule on the tip of a steel rod - a length of coat hanger works, or a small screwdriver too. When the plastic is sufficiently melted, press it into the hole using the flat side of a putty knife. If it doesn't "form" correctly, heat it again and keep forcing it in place with the putt knife. 3M it, acetone it, voila! Perfect!

It pays to be a cheapskate.

TFlan

 Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2011 10:24:38 -0400
 To: shoptalk@mail.msen.com
 From: j...@clubmaker-online.com
 Subject: ShopTalk: Bore thru plugs

 I bought a batch of 7 wood heads from Advanced Golf that are bore
 thru. I've got the equipment and skills to finish the shafts properly
 but would really rather simply plug the sole instead of messing
 around with it.
 I had a plastic plug I used in an old Titleist 975D but don't
 remember where I got it from, any ideas on where to find these?
 --




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skype: jhmuir
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