Hello Bob Lee and list! Here's the process I used to make a recent couple of batches of CS, the first of which I had tested. A friend is trying that one (how's it going, friend? <g>), and my fish and I are working on the other.
The tests were done at an environmental testing lab near me. The samples came back as 26 and 22.4 ppm, which averages to about 24 ppm. The lab told me that the results were within the error bars of the measurement even if the two samples were the same. The two samples came from different runs within the batch, anyway, so with all the unertaintly I feel that averaging the two is acceptable. I don't yet know how potent the stuff really is. One of the things I didn't choose to do was light quarantine. Room lights and daylight (no direct sun) were present during all processing. So I'm proceeding with the fish experiment and some topical use. We'll see. Here's how it was made... All glassware and fittings were washed with soap and water, rinsed with charcoal filtered water, and double rinsed with distilled water before use. The electrodes are made of 99.9% pure silver, 12 gauge round wire. They are 3/4" apart with 3" immersed in the water. The power supply is 30 V regulated DC capable of putting out 100 milliamps. Measured output under load was 29.9 volts. The water is Absopure brand Steam Distilled Drinking Water, made by Absopure Water Co. Plymouth, Michigan 48170, phone 800-334-1064. I drilled 2 holes, 3/4" apart in the lid of a quart Mason canning jar and put small rubber grommets in them. For the second batch, I made a wood block with two holes and forced the electrodes through the holes and then passed them through the lid. This keeps the electrode spacing steadier. I connected the electrodes to the power supply with alligator clip lead wires. A Fluke 8060A digital multimeter was connected in series with the electrode circuit to measure current. I filled the quart jar with distilled water to within 1/2 inch of the rim and placed it in a pan of water on an electric hotplate. The pan and jar were then heated until the water in the pan barely boiled and the temperature in the jar rose to between 185 and 195 degrees F, as measured with a glass candy thermometer. Voltage was applied to the electrodes. I monitored the current while observing the electrodes closely for the beginning of production. Initial current was about 1.4 milliamps and rose gradually to 9 milliamps after 30 minutes. At that point, the first wisps of silver particles were visible coming from the positive electode. I allowed the process to continue for one hour more, during which the usual buildup of fuzzy oxide occured on the negative electrode, and the current gradually increased until it was between 40 and 45 milliamps at the end. After disconnecting the leads and carefully removing the electrodes so as not to dislodge too much of the oxide deposit, I capped the jar, removed it from the pan, and let it cool. This jarfull was made to provide starter for the final production run. The contents were clear, with a deep amber color, and showed obvious tyndall effect when a light was shined through it. The starter was divided equally among 4 quart jars, and the jars filled to within 1/2" of the rim with more distilled water. In turn, each of the 4 jars was placed in the pan and brought to temperature. Initial current was between 4 and 6 milliamps, and production began quite reliably after 6 minutes as the current reached 9 milliamps. The process was continued for an additional 45 minutes, for a total time to process each jar of 51 minutes. The current climbed slowly throughout the process, until the current at the end was about 52 to 57 milliamps, with some sensitivity to the exact spacing of the electrodes. (Moreso on the first batch than the second.) Each jar was capped and removed from the heat and allowed to cool. The jars sealed very nicely, by the way! I gathered 12 ounce amber screw top beer bottles from a couple of sources and washed them throughly. The contents of each quart jar was filtered, 1/2 quart at a time, and distributed among 10 bottles. The filter apparatus was a bottle top, vacuum assisted, .22 micron cellulose acetate membrane filter (made by 3M), with a Whatman #1 paper pre-filter, which drained into a 500 ml glass lab bottle. The vacuum source was a vacuum aspirator attached to the kitchen faucet. Only a trace of gross contaminants were found in the pre-filters, and the membrane filter gradually darkened, but was still free-flowing at the end of the fourth quart. It seemed noticeably slower by the second quart of the second batch, and was replaced for the last two quarts. The ten bottles were then loosly capped and half immersed in a large pot of water on the stove, which was then heated until the water just began to boil. They were left in the water bath for 1/2 hour after it came to a boil, and then each bottle was carefully removed, its cap securely tightened, and allowed to cool. Two bottles were unsealed as a test, and each made a satisfying small pop when opened, indicating a good seal. I have set these bottles aside to provide samples for immediate and long term testing. Peace and blessings, Mike [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian] [[email protected] ] [Speaking only for myself... ] -- The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal silver. To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to: [email protected] -or- [email protected] with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the subject: line. To post, address your message to: [email protected] List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]>
