Hi Pam! I like mine too! When you do DC the poles stay the same. So you will 
lose silver on one. It will accumilate sludge on the other. Then when you use 
SWAP they change back and forth. But when it's on. The red and green will swap 
each other. Every time the poles reverse. It shows that its working. As the 
silver content grows. The light will get brighter. If its bright to beging 
with. It meens the distilled water is too high in impuraties. I bought a Hanna 
TDS-1 (total disolved solids) from Utopia Silver. com for $15 that will give 
you the silver reading. But you need to double the numbers. Like 10 would be 
20% Silver solution. I've got to know Ken pretty well. He is really an 
interesting guy! Has a lot of info on his Silver Puppy sight plus other info. 
Have fun!  Larry


--- On Sat, 10/10/09, Pam Wanveer <woods...@hers.com> wrote:


From: Pam Wanveer <woods...@hers.com>
Subject: CS>Red light on my Silver Puppy
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Saturday, October 10, 2009, 8:15 AM


Hello.  I have not posted before but read and love this list and learn 
boatloads.  I have a Silver Puppy and have been using it for a few years now.  
It is great. Today I decided to try something different.  I always use the DC 
and Auto settings but for some reason today I thought I would try Swap and 
Auto.  (I thought I read it will make the silver electrodes last longer)  As 
always, as I put the electrodes into the water (reverse osmosis) the
green  light got brighter as I inserted and things seemed fine as usual.  I 
looked over and the red light was on.
I have never seen the red light before so I switched the DC/Swap switch to DC 
and the
green light came on and things seem fine now.  So what was the red light trying 
to tell me????
Also, I do not have a meter to test the EIS when done.  Should I and if so 
which one?

Thank you,

Pam



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