The grain of wheat bulb is not necessary and only complicates the circuit. I
have had many generators made by friends handy with soldering irons. The
instructions are below and we always use 30 volts (three 9 volt batteries and
two AA's wired in series). Remember the KISS principle (Keep It Simple
Stupid). To enhance production with distilled water, heat it and stir in a
drop of honey on the tip of a toothpick before inserting the silver rods.
One of the listers asked me to explain how to make an inexpensive CS
generator for less than $20 worth of Radio Shack parts, so I thought I'd
repeat them for any others who were so inclined:
All you need from Radio Shack are the following parts:
Three 9 volt alkaline batteries
Two AA batteries
One battery holder with snap on terminals for two AA batteries
Four snap on connectors for the 9 volt batteries and the AA holder
One package of shrink wrap insulation
One package of insulated wire with alligator clip ends
One black plastic project box 5 1/2" long X 2 1/2" wide X 2" high
Solder and flux and, of course, a soldering gun.
Cut five 3/4" segments of shrink wrap tubes of the appropriate size to
slip
snugly over the snap on connector wires; one for each pair of connectors
you are
going to solder together in series (red to black). After each soldered
connection is made and cooled, slip the shrink wrap tube over the
connection and
heat with a hair dryer to shrink it. You should then have four snap on
connectors wired in series to each other. That leaves two free wires at
the
ends, one red and one black. To those wires (being sure to insert them
into the
remaining two shrink wrap tubes) you will then solder the two 12" wires
with the
insulated alligator clips on the end. Slide and heat the shrink wrap
over the
connections. Snap all the batteries into place being careful not to let
the
alligators bite each other (shorting out). Insert all into the project
box and
use a piece of styrofoam or foam rubber cut to size to keep everything
in place
before you screw down the lid. Oh yes, you will need to drill out a
small notch
at one upper end of the box for the egress of the wires with the
alligator
clips. Then just screw down the lid and get yourself two 5 3/8" lengths
of .999
fine 14 gauge round silver wire that you can cut from a 2 Oz. coil
(minimum order
is $25 plus shipping) from Myron Toback, Inc. in NYC at 1-800-223-7550.
Or, you can send me a $5 bill and I will mail you the silver wire pair
which you
must then insert in a strip of scrap leather, cardboard or plastic so as
to keep
them 1 1/2" apart when inserted into the heated distilled water.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING COLLOIDAL SILVER WITH A HOMEMADE 30 VOLT
GENERATOR
* Heat 12 - 24 ounces of distilled water in microwave in glass jar
(Campbell's Soup) and drop a tiny globule of honey on the tip of a
toothpick
into the water.
* Connect + and - (red and black) alligator clips to hooked end of
silver rods.
* Be sure that rods are uniformly about 1½ inches apart and held
parallel by a cardboard or plastic separator.
* In about 5 minutes you will see hydrogen bubbles rising off the
cathode (-) terminal.and a yellow misty cloud coming off the anode (+)
terminal.
* The yellow cloud consists of positively charged microscopic
particles of silver .0001
microns in size.
* Occasionally stir the solution gently with a plastic knife or
drink
stirrer.
* The strength of the solution in parts per million (ppm) will
depend
on how long you leave the batteries connected to the silver rods in the
heated water.
* As a rough rule of thumb, you will get one additional ppm per
minute
of exposure.
* So 10 minutes should give you a 10 ppm solution. Stronger than
that
is NOT necessarily better!
* A normal CS solution will be pale yellow in color.
* If you forget to shut down the process in time, you may get a
greenish-yellow solution which indicates 30 or more ppm (You may dilute
with
distilled water)
* If you get such a solution, you may also see small black flecks
of
silver in the water.
* Don't panic! Just use a paper towel as a filter to line the
inside
of the funnel before you pour the solution into the empty peroxide
bottle
(or, better yet, an amber or cobalt blue glass container.)
* You will note that both the anode and cathode have darkened from
oxidized silver.
* Clean off both rods after use by rubbing them down with the
rough
side of a dishwashing sponge or cloth; then rinse and polish with a
paper
towel. The 14 gauge silver rods should last for years..
* Shelf life of your colloidal silver solution should be 4 to six
weeks (keep at room temperature, do not refrigerate) and you may shake a
bit
before use.
* Viability of your solution may always be checked by using the
Tyndall Effect in a darkened room where you shine a laser pointer
horizontally into the solution while in a clear glass container. If you
see a bright red line
reflecting off of the silver particles in solution, you are A-OK. Try
it
through plain distilled water and you will see nothing!
Bon Appetit !!
Dick Jaffe
G&B Rogers wrote:
> Hello listers from a newbie,
> I bought a CS generator and after seeing how simple it is, have tried my
> hand at making some, hopefully to give to family for holiday gifts. The
> version I am using is the one that comes from the Beck papers. My only
> difficulty is getting a 24 grain of wheat bulb. I substituted a 14 v.
> green LED bulb on the first one I made, (as a similar LED bulb was used on
> the generator I purchased - although it uses only a 9 v. battery) but it
> was quite difficult to see if the bulb was even lighting up. The flow
> through the silver wire electrode was somewhat slow, I thought it would
> work "faster" with the 27 voltage of batteries soldered in series than the
> 9v powered purchased machine, but it didn't.
>
> My second version used a red 5v LED with integrated resistor, but when I
> tested it, within seconds the water became cloudy.
>
> My questions are these:
> 1) Can this be built without a bulb - just the three 9v clips in series
> connected to alligator clips via zipper insulated wire?
> 2) What would cause the second version (5v red LED) to make the water
> cloudy so quickly, and is there a way to fix this?
> 3) can other bulbs besides the recommended one (24v) be used for the 27v
> battery version?
> 4) I have been using the CS mostly for external disinfection so have been
> using primarily purified water, not distilled. When I use distilled, even
> when I leave the electrodes in for an hour, I do not get the golden color.
> I have been adding only a drop of a baking soda solution to the distilled
> water that I read helps with the process.
>
> Any suggestions for making these CS would be appreciated! I'm rather in a
> time crunch since I need to get these done for the holidays. I figured
> that with Y2K, all of my family could use having a generator on hand!
>
> I haven't done any of this kind of thing since I was a kid building Heath
> kits with my dad, so if my explanations aren't clear enough, please forgive
> me.
>
> Thank you,
> Beth
>
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