To all interested list members. My sincere
apology for being so tardy in executing this post.
These instructions will be posted in two, separate
parts. This is part one.
Before I begin I would like to identify a couple of
possible part numbers for the 1 ohm resistor. A useful one may be found
at Mouser Electronics. In their current catalogue it is 283-1.0. This
is a small size metal oxide power resistor, rated at 3 watts continuous
(about .6" in body-length).. If you prefer a wirewound resistor, I
suggest the silicone coated one. The number for it is 71-RS2B-1.0 The
body of this resistor is slightly over .5" in length. They each cost
about $.40....quite reasonable.
Because of the added difficulty in explaining, and for
the builder to properly execute....the paper template, I am going to
describe the construction of a 13 element, not a 15 element unit.
Additionally, because of the difficulty for unskilled persons to
maintain proper tolerances when drilling styrofoam, I have opted for
using wood....it is more forgiving.
1. Using a short length of !" X 4" softwood (fir or white pine)
planking, mark and cut off a 3.5" length. This gives a small 3-5/8" X
3-1/2" rectangle. (The reason for this shape is that the wood is cut in
3-5/8" width at the sawmill).. Set aside for later use.
2. Using either plain paper, or 1/4" quadrille pad, construct the
following template:
using a ruler--and or a drafting triangle--construct a 3.5"
X 3.5" square.
a. Starting at the upper left-hand corner of the 3.5"
square, construct a second square, starting EXACTLY .5" inside the
original square (the 3.5" one). This results in a 2.5" square inside a
3.5" square..
b. Next, beginning at the upper left-hand corner of the
2.5" square, mark off the entire perimeter in 5/8" intervals.
c. Next, connect each of the top-to-bottom points with
a straight line, and then connect the horizontal interval points with
separate, straight lines. This yields a grid of 16 equal squares.
d. This is your drill-pattern template.
3. Carefully cut out this template along the outside lines of the
3.5" square.
4. Next carefully align the template against the upper left-hand
corner of the wooden block (align with the 3.5" dimension in the
horizontal---left to right).
5. Tape in place with small squares of making tape, taking care not
to allow tape to overlay the paper template edges more than .25".
6. With the template securely in place, and using a sharp scribe or
drawing compass point, push through the paper EXACTLY at the corner
points of the inside (2.5") square.
7. Next, punch through each point INSIDE and along the OUTSIDE
edges where any two lines connect or intersect.
8. What you now have are 25 small dots arranged in a square grid.
Using a ball-point pen, press and ink each dot.
9. These marks make up your drilling pattern.
10. Next using a 23/64 drill bit in a drill press or hand drill,
center each dot--in turn--and drill each hole all the way through.
11. Now you have completed the LED assembly mounting base. It
should look like the schematic below.
O_ O O_ O O_
O O_ O O_ O
TOP O_ O O_ O
O_ BOTTOM
O O_ O O_
O
O_ O O_ O
O_ -
The marked holes (ones with the _ next to them)
represent the ones which will be filled with an LED unit.
12. Next, select an LED and cut each wire lead down to approximately
3/8" in length. Now carefully insert the LED into
one of the LED connector bases.
13. Next, using a AA size battery, with short leads ( 4" to 6" long)
attached to each end (soldered on is best, but strongly taped with bare
ends making good contact.....is acceptable)-----touch the soldering lugs
extending from the bottom of the LED mounting connector with the leads
from the AA battery. If the LED does not light up, switch the leads
from the battery and the LED should light up. When the LED is burning
the connections are correct. (Remember, these are DIODES and will
conduct in only one direction.)
14. Note which solder lug the positive (+) battery lead is touching
and mark (using a permanent marker) vertical a line down the side of the
LED mounting base closest to this solder lug.
15. Repeat this procedure for each LED you intend to use.
16, Remember, when you connect the LEDs to their power supply, they
will ONLY burn if connected correctly.....in parallel arrangement;
that is, each one is to be connected across the power-supply (not in
sequence to each other, which would be a series connection).
17. Next, for a 13 element assembly select a 26" section of 30 gage
hook-up wie and cut into 13 sections of 2" lengths.
18. Next. select a DIFFERENT colored 26" section of hook-up wire
and cut it into 13 sections of 2" lengths. One group will be your
Negative (-) and one group will be the Positive (+) leads for the LEDs
to be connected to the trunk lines.
19. Next, trim approximately 3/8" of insulation off of each
end...of each 2" lead wire.
20. Next, keeping the colored wires common to their polarities
(positive color to the MARKED side of the LED connector base and
negative color to the other side) connect the 2" leads so each LED has
one (-) and one (+) attached to its connector base.
You are now ready to start the final assembly procedure.
I must close now, it is almost 1:30 in the
morning......long past my bed-time.
This is the end of part #1 of the assembly instructions.
Sincerely, Brooks Bradley.
--
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