Hello list members.....time for more of
my incoherent ramblings.
21. Next, select one LED unit and insert it into the wooden base
assembly; starting from the upper left-hand corner is convenient.
Repeat for each LED unit (arranged in staggered pattern) until all units
are in place.
NOTE: Be sure to align the LEDs in a manner that places the
negative leads of two rows closest to each other; then the postive leads
closest to each other in the next two rows.....keeping this relationship
for all connections where two series of LEDs face each other......across
the entire assembly. Note the following schematic.
Top Trunk ----------------------------------
- *+ O +*- O - +*
Trunk # 1 ----------------------------------
O + * - O + *- O
Trunk # 2 ----------------------------------
+*- O + *- O + *-
Trunk # 3 ----------------------------------
O + *- O + *- O
Trunk # 4 -----------------------------------
+*- O + *- O + *-
Bottom -----------------------------------
Trunk
Trunk #1 will have the positive (+) leads from the two
closest rows connected to it; Trunk # 2 will have the negative (-)
leads from the two closest rows connected to it: Trunk # 3 will have
the positive (+) leads from the two closest rows connected to it: Trunk
# 4 will have the negative leads from the two closest rows connected to
it; The Top Trunk will have the negative (-) leads from the top row
connected to it; The Bottom Trunk will have the positive (+) leads
connected to it. Do remember that the trunks are nothing more than 6"
lengths of 30 gage hook-up wire.
22. Now is a good time to fabricate the Trunk lines. Select an 18"
section of hook-up wire with the Positive-side (+) color and cut it into
three 6" sections. Repeat, using the Negative-side (-) colored wire.
23. Next, starting at either end of a Negative-side colored Trunk
wire, strip approximately 3/8" of insulation from the tip; measure
approximately 3/4" from the middle of the stripped end and remove a 3/8"
section of insulation; measure another 3/4" from the center of this
stripped section and remove another 3/8" section of insulation. You
trunk line should look something like this:
---=====---=====---========================= This is your Top
Trunk line.
24. Next, select a Positive-side (+) section of Trunk line and repeat
the above procedure. This is your Trunk # 1 line. Repeat this
procedure using Negative color for Trunk # 2, Positive for Trunk # 3,
Negative for Trunk # 4, and Positive color wire for the Bottom Trunk
line.
25. Next, connect up the Positive leads from the first two rows (Trunk
#1) in a manner that gives easy access to one of the three bare-wire
sections of the trunk. DO NOT SOLDER YET.
26. Next, connect up the Negative leads from the second and third row
(Trunk # 2) in similar fashion as you did Trunk # 1. Repeat for Trunk #
3, using Positive leads; Trunk # 4 using Negative leads; and Bottom
Trunk, using Positive leads.
27. After all of the LEDs are connected to the Trunk Line system,
connect all of the Positive Trunk lines together to form a common
conductor. Do the same thing for the Negative Trunk lines.
NOTE: Use your own judgement as to which lines must be
shortened, and which (if any) are left untrimmed......in order to
fabricate a manageable harness assembly.
28. Before proceeding further, test your light assembly using your AA
battery fabricated earlier for polarity determination of your LEDs.
This is accomplished simply by touching the leads from the AA battery
assembly to the positive and negative leads from your LED assembly. I
nothing lights up, reverse the leads. If some units are not burning,
check to be sure they are not connected improperly. If they are, the
easiest thing to do is to pull out the LED bulb and turn is around and
plug it back in. Unless you have a bad connection, it will burn
properly.
29. As soon as you have all the lights burning properly, it is time to
solder EVERY connection. Do this next, and as soon as you have
finished.....test the assembly again----for proper operation. If
everything is working properly, carefully flatten the wire assembly down
on the back of the wooden base assembly, being CAREFUL to keep the
inside Trunk lines in their proper places. DO NOT short anything out by
sloppy alignment.
30. Next, select your little slide switch (#275-409A) and connect a
short (4") section of hook-up wire to one side, and a similar wire to
the other side. Now place the slide switch on one side of the wooden
assembly base (your choice) and temporarily tape in position..
31. At this point you have an option of either using a "homemade", but
very simple arrangement of two AA batteries, connected in series or to
modify the 4-space AA battery holder from Radio Shack (#270-391A).
32. I recommend modifying the battery holder, as this makes battery
replacement much easier, plus the fact that four batteries lengthen the
time between replacements. The modification is quite simple, but
somewhat tricky to explain clearly---without clear schematics. I do not
have a scanner at home, and do not have time to work on this at my
office. Therefore, I must try to make do and answer questions
privately, from those who have difficulty.
33. Select the AA battery holder and place it in front of you with the
red and black leads on top and the open side of the holder facing you.
Notice that there is a small wire running along the bottom/back of the
holder, that connects the outside batteries. We are going to leave the
two outside batteries connected in series, but break the connection
between the 2nd and third batteries. Additionally, we are going to
leave the inside batteries connected in series, and to connect both
assemblies in parallel (+ to + and Neg. to Neg.). This actually yields
a Series X Parallel power supply connection.
34. Assume the following numbering scheme. From left to right...facing
the open side of the holder....#1--#2---#3---#4. Using a small pair of
diagonal cutters (pliers), cut the wire coming off the wire-spring base
at the top of battery #1. Cut as close to the end (going in to slot #
2) of the wire, as possible. Using needle-point pliers, pull the end of
the wire through the slot on top of the battery holder. Next, solder a
3" or 4" length of hook-up wire to the end of this wire. This becomes
the negative lead for batteries #1 and #4.
35. Next, carefully solder another length of hook-up wire to the hole
in the top of holder slot #2. This becomes the positive lead for
batteries #2 and #3.
36, Next connect both Positive leads together and both Negative leads
together. Notice the markings on the batteries----and on the back of
the battery holder to insure proper installation. Be sure to leave
enough length to reach anywhere along the perimeter of the wooden base
assembly. You can, always, shorten wires.
37. You now have a four battery, 3 volt DC power source.
38. Next, fabricate a piece of thin plastic sheeting that is the same
size as the wooden LED assembly base and glue the AA battery holder to
this plastic sheet. After the glue sets, using electrical tape, fix
the AA battery holder to the bottom side of the wooden LED assembly
base. Be sure to leave a bare space along the side of the assembly
where you are going to attach the slide switch.
39. Next, place the 1 ohm resistor along the bottom edge of the AA
battery holder and form the red lead from the top of battery slot #4
down along the side of the holder and cut to the proper length to
connect with either lead coming out of the 1 ohm resistor. Trim the
wires to the necessary length and twist them together and solder. Next,
solder a 4" length of hook-up wire to the OTHER end of the 1 ohm
resistor. This becomes the Positive power lead for the LED assembly.
40. Next, shorten the lead coming away from the slide switch to the
proper length to connect with the Positive power lead assembly (all of
the Positive Trunk Lines twisted together) coming from the LED assembly.
41. Be sure to shorten one---or both--- wires as required to make a
reasonably symmetrical arrangement. Common judgement is the key here.
42. When things are acceptably lined up, permanently attach the slide
switch to the side of the wooden LED base assembly, using a suitable
adhesive (a spot of epoxy works well)..
43. You can epoxy the 1 ohm resistor to the bottom of the battery
holder, after everything is properly aligned.
Hopefully, everything is in place and the unit
works. Good Luck, for those of you who are game to try it.
If you have problems and/or specific questions, just
email me OFFLINE.
Sincerely. Brooks Bradley.
p.s. Hopefully, my mail program will not wrap-around the schematic.
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